November 25, 2005
May 10, 2005
Brizzle
Well, there's no point in pretending - the small adventure is finished. It was . . . emotional. Most of the emotion was related to smiling, astonishment and joy, not bad really. Having said that, it has been great meeting up with family and friends again. I spent the first week and half being pampered by my family, which was just grand. Even though current technology (like this blog) means that you're never out of touch in the way that travellers overseas once were, there's no substitute for seeing everyone and being able to spend time with them. All I have to do now is get a job (interview number one in two days time) and then life will be back into it's home routine.
If you are wondering whether it was all worth while, the answer for me is undoubtedly yes. I hope that one day I will be back in NZ to explore the little bits left as mysteries. When I do, another blog is sure to follow. Thank you one and all for taking the time to follow my odd wonderings and wanderings. Be good, have fun and get out to see the world, it's a great place.
If you are wondering whether it was all worth while, the answer for me is undoubtedly yes. I hope that one day I will be back in NZ to explore the little bits left as mysteries. When I do, another blog is sure to follow. Thank you one and all for taking the time to follow my odd wonderings and wanderings. Be good, have fun and get out to see the world, it's a great place.
April 14, 2005
Homeward bound
Here I am, almost at the end of my small adventure. Just the one day stop off in Auckland to go after the flight up from Queenstown this afternoon and then I'll be on the long haul home. So what has it been like?
Well you've been with me since the start, so you should have a pretty good idea of what I've been up to. However, there are hundreds of small things which have never featured in my blog, which make NZ such a fun and unique place to visit and I will miss those small things as much as the more obvious features.
To give you just a few examples, heaps of small towns here feel the need to make themselves special in some way. My favourite is a tiny town called Tuatapere in the south of the South Island, which welcomes visitors with a big sign proclaiming itself as "New Zealand's sausage capital"! Fantastic. I love the fact that the tandem paragliders in Queenstown land on the playing field of the primary school - even when the kids are outside at playtime. It doesn't seem to phase the kids and the paragliders just head for a relatively quiet area. When I filled up with petrol in the east cape, the cashier didn't even bother to look at the pump to see how much petrol I had put in, he just trusted me to tell him the truth. People in smaller towns leave their cars outside shops with the engine running and the door wide open while they natter for 10 minutes. Little things like this are as important as the crystal clear air and water, the huge wide open spaces, the lush rain forests and the welcoming people.
So what have I missed while I have been away? To tell you the truth, only two things. The first is people - family and friends - who I am really looking forward to seeing. The second is a pillow. The best part of six months spent sleeping with your head on a pile of clothes every night really makes you appreciate the simple pleasure of a pillow on the rare occasions that one is available!
I hope that you have enjoyed travelling through NZ with me. It's been great to get comments and emails from everyone and I thank you all very, very much. If anyone wants information about anything New Zealand, places to visit, contact details for any trips, or just general information please get in touch. I can thoroughly recommend this as a holiday destination if you are into the outdoors, big scenery, the lord of the rings films, rugby and having fun. If I had to sum up my trip in a few words, it would have to be "sweet as".
By the way, new photos below . . . .
Well you've been with me since the start, so you should have a pretty good idea of what I've been up to. However, there are hundreds of small things which have never featured in my blog, which make NZ such a fun and unique place to visit and I will miss those small things as much as the more obvious features.
To give you just a few examples, heaps of small towns here feel the need to make themselves special in some way. My favourite is a tiny town called Tuatapere in the south of the South Island, which welcomes visitors with a big sign proclaiming itself as "New Zealand's sausage capital"! Fantastic. I love the fact that the tandem paragliders in Queenstown land on the playing field of the primary school - even when the kids are outside at playtime. It doesn't seem to phase the kids and the paragliders just head for a relatively quiet area. When I filled up with petrol in the east cape, the cashier didn't even bother to look at the pump to see how much petrol I had put in, he just trusted me to tell him the truth. People in smaller towns leave their cars outside shops with the engine running and the door wide open while they natter for 10 minutes. Little things like this are as important as the crystal clear air and water, the huge wide open spaces, the lush rain forests and the welcoming people.
So what have I missed while I have been away? To tell you the truth, only two things. The first is people - family and friends - who I am really looking forward to seeing. The second is a pillow. The best part of six months spent sleeping with your head on a pile of clothes every night really makes you appreciate the simple pleasure of a pillow on the rare occasions that one is available!
I hope that you have enjoyed travelling through NZ with me. It's been great to get comments and emails from everyone and I thank you all very, very much. If anyone wants information about anything New Zealand, places to visit, contact details for any trips, or just general information please get in touch. I can thoroughly recommend this as a holiday destination if you are into the outdoors, big scenery, the lord of the rings films, rugby and having fun. If I had to sum up my trip in a few words, it would have to be "sweet as".
By the way, new photos below . . . .
April 11, 2005
Queen
So here I am, back in Queenstown for my last week in NZ. My flight out of here is on Saturday, so I've still got a few more days to go. I've been out doing more walking in the hills and by the shores of fabulous blue lakes and, between marvelling at how lovely it is, thinking that I'm going to miss all of this when I come home.
Not sure what I am going to do for the next few days, the weather is supposed to be pretty good - it's warm and sunny at the moment - so keeping out and about seems like a good idea.
Sorry this is a short (but sweet (as)) post, but not too much to tell you at the moment. After all, you know by now what Queenstown is like. I'll try to come up with something more interesting and then post again . . . .
Not sure what I am going to do for the next few days, the weather is supposed to be pretty good - it's warm and sunny at the moment - so keeping out and about seems like a good idea.
Sorry this is a short (but sweet (as)) post, but not too much to tell you at the moment. After all, you know by now what Queenstown is like. I'll try to come up with something more interesting and then post again . . . .
April 06, 2005
Lots of nothing
So what have I been doing for the last few days? Lots of nothing, that's what! I have been out walking in the fabulous Otago countryside, just drinking in the views and the wide open spaces. I am back in Wanaka at the momnet, where the sun is shining and the autumnal colours are bright and fabulous. The days are still warm, with shorts and jandals being most popular, but night time is a different story. As soon as the sun goes down, the temperature plummets, especially with the cloudless skies we have got at the moment. It doesn't quite seem possible that in about three months this quiet town will be packed with snowboarders and skiers and that the surrounding hills, and possibly the town, will be blanketed in snow.
I haven't got much to tell you, because trying to convey the feeling of sitting on a hill top looking out over the hills and mountains is an utterly thankless and pointless task. Unfortunately my vocabulary simply isn't up to the job. All I can tell you is that I could happily spend hours just looking at the scenery here, despite that fact that I can see it would not be to everyone's taste. I'll have photo's when I get back, but they will never provide the feeling of space, the clarity of the air and the warmth of the sun. I just hope they will be enough to trigger my memory in years to come. In the meantime, I'll be making sure that those memories get as much reinforcement as possible before I leave. Right, got to go and find a hill to climb up . . .
I haven't got much to tell you, because trying to convey the feeling of sitting on a hill top looking out over the hills and mountains is an utterly thankless and pointless task. Unfortunately my vocabulary simply isn't up to the job. All I can tell you is that I could happily spend hours just looking at the scenery here, despite that fact that I can see it would not be to everyone's taste. I'll have photo's when I get back, but they will never provide the feeling of space, the clarity of the air and the warmth of the sun. I just hope they will be enough to trigger my memory in years to come. In the meantime, I'll be making sure that those memories get as much reinforcement as possible before I leave. Right, got to go and find a hill to climb up . . .
April 01, 2005
Lake district
Ok, decision made. I have wended my way back over to the southern lakes area, which is not as warm as some other areas, but is just beautiful as. Big mountains and gorgeous lakes. I am going to stay in this area for the next couple of weeks and then I have a flight from Queenstown to Auckland booked for April 16 and then fly home a couple of days later. The flight from Queenstown was cheaper than travelling overland and just a touch quicker.
I was lucky enough to stay with friends in Christchurch. Although Gordon, the guy I met on the interislander ferry wasn't in CHCH that night, his lodger was. It was good to see Ely (the lodger) again, such a nice guy. Bless is heart, he fed me breakfast, drove me to the bus stop in the city centre and even left me with a packed lunch for the journey! Good people these Kiwis you know.
Anyway, I'm in Queenstown yet again at the moment, but am looking at a couple of possible tramps and thinking of popping over to Wanaka for a few days as well. Right now I'm just going to sit back and enjoy the place for a day or two though. As plans develop, I'll let you know. In the meantime, take care all.
If you want more online mumblings (of a more cerebral nature), get yourself to:
http://robsog.typepad.com/robsog/
I was lucky enough to stay with friends in Christchurch. Although Gordon, the guy I met on the interislander ferry wasn't in CHCH that night, his lodger was. It was good to see Ely (the lodger) again, such a nice guy. Bless is heart, he fed me breakfast, drove me to the bus stop in the city centre and even left me with a packed lunch for the journey! Good people these Kiwis you know.
Anyway, I'm in Queenstown yet again at the moment, but am looking at a couple of possible tramps and thinking of popping over to Wanaka for a few days as well. Right now I'm just going to sit back and enjoy the place for a day or two though. As plans develop, I'll let you know. In the meantime, take care all.
If you want more online mumblings (of a more cerebral nature), get yourself to:
http://robsog.typepad.com/robsog/
March 29, 2005
Confusion
Crikey, I'm just not sure where I'm going to be for the last three weeks or so in NZ. Life was much more simple with my own transport! Anyway road up, I spent the easter weekend working my way across the Mackenzie country, the Canterbury high country and then the Canterbury plains. That means I am now back in Christchurch trying to decide what the best course of action is from here. I'm staying with my local friend tonight and will be off again tomorrow, but where to is the question.
There are two basic options. Option 1 is to head north to the top end of the island and then over then next three weeks, work my way back up to Auckland. That gives me the opportunity to see some stuff I didn't see on my way down here.
Option 2 is to stay down here and then fly up to Auckland from either CHCH or Q'town. This would allow me to spend more time in the mountains and probably head of for another tramp.
There's not much in it in terms of cost, so just a day of contemplation and planning ahead then . . .
There are two basic options. Option 1 is to head north to the top end of the island and then over then next three weeks, work my way back up to Auckland. That gives me the opportunity to see some stuff I didn't see on my way down here.
Option 2 is to stay down here and then fly up to Auckland from either CHCH or Q'town. This would allow me to spend more time in the mountains and probably head of for another tramp.
There's not much in it in terms of cost, so just a day of contemplation and planning ahead then . . .
March 24, 2005
Bunnies
Just a very quick note to say happy easter to everyone. Get scoffing chocolate and kick back for a couple of days!
March 22, 2005
Gettin' on
Just an update to let you know that I didn't head off to Wanaka in the end, I decided to stay in Queenstown for an extra couple of days. However I am off today, heading for Tekapo. It's a really quiet spot with not much more than fabulous landscape and a lake which really is blue. Just going to chill out there and have a couple of days ambling around the countryside.
There is one other thing which I feel I should mention. The idea of me taking heli rides may seem extravagant, but they are just another way to get around down here. Having said that, they are far more fun than a bus! The heli ride out of Skippers Canyon cost me the princely sum of just under 20 quid. Not that extravagant really.
Anyway, probably be out of internet range for a few days, so I'll be back when I can.
There is one other thing which I feel I should mention. The idea of me taking heli rides may seem extravagant, but they are just another way to get around down here. Having said that, they are far more fun than a bus! The heli ride out of Skippers Canyon cost me the princely sum of just under 20 quid. Not that extravagant really.
Anyway, probably be out of internet range for a few days, so I'll be back when I can.
March 20, 2005
More biking
No, not another motorbike. Today I went and mountain biked down into Skippers Canyon, which is just outside Queenstown. The road down into the canyon is one of the most notoriously dodgy in NZ, so off road biking is probably the safest option if you want to see it anyway.
Despite heavy rain last night and this morning, by the time I set off, the sun was shining and it was beautifully warm. The biking was good, since if you are reasonably competent the guides just tell you where to stop and wait for everyone else to catch up and give you advice regarding any approaching opportunities for leaping off a precipice. For the bikies, the track we rode down was nice winding single track with a few drop offs thrown in for those who chose to do them - almost all downhill. In fact it was an old pack horse track from the days of the gold rush. The Shotover river which runs through the canyon is the second richest gold river in the world. The only trouble was that I could have carried on with the biking for far longer.
To top it off, I got helicoptered out along the canyon, which was just fantastic. The biking guide told the pilot that it was the first time I had been in a helicopter, because he said that we would get a more fun ride like that. I don't know what it would have been like otherwise, but it was certainly good fun, with the pilot making sure that I was aware of exactly what a good pilot can achieve in a helicopter! All in all, a pretty good day.
I have also blagged a lift to Wanaka from some Kiwi's I met in a pub last night, so I'll be relocating my tent tomorrow and looking for new things to do.
Take care everyone, I'll be back before too long.
Despite heavy rain last night and this morning, by the time I set off, the sun was shining and it was beautifully warm. The biking was good, since if you are reasonably competent the guides just tell you where to stop and wait for everyone else to catch up and give you advice regarding any approaching opportunities for leaping off a precipice. For the bikies, the track we rode down was nice winding single track with a few drop offs thrown in for those who chose to do them - almost all downhill. In fact it was an old pack horse track from the days of the gold rush. The Shotover river which runs through the canyon is the second richest gold river in the world. The only trouble was that I could have carried on with the biking for far longer.
To top it off, I got helicoptered out along the canyon, which was just fantastic. The biking guide told the pilot that it was the first time I had been in a helicopter, because he said that we would get a more fun ride like that. I don't know what it would have been like otherwise, but it was certainly good fun, with the pilot making sure that I was aware of exactly what a good pilot can achieve in a helicopter! All in all, a pretty good day.
I have also blagged a lift to Wanaka from some Kiwi's I met in a pub last night, so I'll be relocating my tent tomorrow and looking for new things to do.
Take care everyone, I'll be back before too long.
March 18, 2005
Big scenery and sore feet
Back in Queenstown after the little stroll. I'm quite tired and my feet are complaining bitterly about all this abuse they keep getting, but the walk was excellent.
I camped for the two nights on the Routeburn walk since the huts for that walk are stupidly expensive, but I'm glad I did. The campsite on the first night was just stunning. I've got a photo which I'll try to get posted soon, so I'm not going to bore you with a feeble description. The walk itself is fairly easy going and takes you from one valley, up over a saddle between the mountains, along the side of another valley and then down to a lake, the site of the second night's stop. The views from the saddle are absolutely awesome. I know the photos will never do it justice.
On the third day the walk heads back above the bush line before dropping you down again to the junction with the Greenstone and Caples tracks. It is only a couple of hours from there to the end of the Routeburn, so I headed off along the Greenstone track as planned. This track was far less travelled and follows the Greenstone valley all the way to Lake Wakatipu (where Queenstown and Glenorchy are). All the time you are walking either in the bush or along the wide open valley floor. It's a gorgeous unspoiled area with enormous views. The swing (suspension) bridges along this track are much smaller as well, usually only suitable for one person at a time, and they can be a tad unnerving!
At the end of the track, myself and the other trampers were met by a boat which took us back across the lake since there's not sensible road route to the area.
So over five days you get beech forests, alpine scenery, rain forest, bright blue lakes, bright green rivers and the most superb views - not bad really. Fortunately there were lots of very friendly and very nice people doing the walks, which meant that the evenings went by quickly and chance meetings on the tramp were a pleasure. In case you were wondering who else does this kind of thing, there were people ranging from a group of 18 year old Belgian lads through to a 72 year old Kiwi guy and a whole range of ages and nationalities in between.
Given that this will probably be the last big tamp I do in NZ, I'm glad it was so good. The sun shone most of the time and despite being on the border of one of the wettest areas of the world, there was not a drop of rain. All in all, excellent. Having said that, I'm glad not to be carrying all that gear anymore . . .
I camped for the two nights on the Routeburn walk since the huts for that walk are stupidly expensive, but I'm glad I did. The campsite on the first night was just stunning. I've got a photo which I'll try to get posted soon, so I'm not going to bore you with a feeble description. The walk itself is fairly easy going and takes you from one valley, up over a saddle between the mountains, along the side of another valley and then down to a lake, the site of the second night's stop. The views from the saddle are absolutely awesome. I know the photos will never do it justice.
On the third day the walk heads back above the bush line before dropping you down again to the junction with the Greenstone and Caples tracks. It is only a couple of hours from there to the end of the Routeburn, so I headed off along the Greenstone track as planned. This track was far less travelled and follows the Greenstone valley all the way to Lake Wakatipu (where Queenstown and Glenorchy are). All the time you are walking either in the bush or along the wide open valley floor. It's a gorgeous unspoiled area with enormous views. The swing (suspension) bridges along this track are much smaller as well, usually only suitable for one person at a time, and they can be a tad unnerving!
At the end of the track, myself and the other trampers were met by a boat which took us back across the lake since there's not sensible road route to the area.
So over five days you get beech forests, alpine scenery, rain forest, bright blue lakes, bright green rivers and the most superb views - not bad really. Fortunately there were lots of very friendly and very nice people doing the walks, which meant that the evenings went by quickly and chance meetings on the tramp were a pleasure. In case you were wondering who else does this kind of thing, there were people ranging from a group of 18 year old Belgian lads through to a 72 year old Kiwi guy and a whole range of ages and nationalities in between.
Given that this will probably be the last big tamp I do in NZ, I'm glad it was so good. The sun shone most of the time and despite being on the border of one of the wettest areas of the world, there was not a drop of rain. All in all, excellent. Having said that, I'm glad not to be carrying all that gear anymore . . .
March 12, 2005
Queenstown again
Well the birthday was good. As predicted, the evening was spent in a pub watching the rugby and meeting strangers, not a bad way to spend your birthday really.
Queenstown is as mad as ever. Having seen far more of the south island now, I can appreciate just how busy this town is compared to the rest of the place. You know you're in Queenstown because there are tandem paragliders all over the sky, bi-planes doing aerobatics (with paying passangers of course), bungy jumpers at the top of the hill which over looks the town and jet boats flying around on the lake. I should also tell you about the highest bungy in NZ, which you can watch from the lake side. This might sound more than a bit bonkers, but it's true; the big one is now the parabungy. What happens is that people go out parascending off the back of a speed boat, strapped to an "instructor". When the parachute has reached about 180m, the instructor releases the victim, who then falls towards the lake attached to a bungy rope which is in turn attached to the parachute! It looks completely ridiculous, but is probably great fun - don't think I'm going to try it though. Maybe if I come back to NZ one day! If that doesn't appeal to you, there are loads of other activities. How about river boarding? The idea is that you slip on a wet suit and a climbing helmet and then throw yourself down a river full of serious rapids with nothing more than a body board for help. This place is quite, quite insane.
There's also a bunch of Canadian pro mountain bikers staying on the campsite. They're in NZ for 2 1/2 months making an extreme mountain biking TV program and they look like they're pretty serious mentalists. They were practicing a few stunts around the campsite yesterday on their Santa Cruz Hecklers and V10's (pricey bikes for those not familiar). Seem nice enough and the I reckon the resulting program will be mighty entertaining.
Yesterday was a chilled out day in town, looking through the logistics involved in doing a couple of tramps up at the far end of the lake. My plan is to link two tramps together for another long jaunt through the wildernesses. This time I am going to do the Routeburn walk, which heads over towards Milford Sound and then come back in this direction on the Greenstone track. The Routeburn will be busy, since it is one of the most popular tramps in NZ, but the Greenstone should be quite quiet. The big advantage of walking back in this direction is that the road journey from the far end of the Routeburn back to Queenstown is about 350km, and I have to come back since I can't carry all my stuff and will have to leave some here in storage.
So that should fill up the next five days or so and I will head off tomorrow, giving me one more day in Queenstown before the serious tramping starts again. Just time to rest and pamper my feet and get the supplies in.
Have a lovely week everyone and I'll be back with tramping stories in a few days.
Queenstown is as mad as ever. Having seen far more of the south island now, I can appreciate just how busy this town is compared to the rest of the place. You know you're in Queenstown because there are tandem paragliders all over the sky, bi-planes doing aerobatics (with paying passangers of course), bungy jumpers at the top of the hill which over looks the town and jet boats flying around on the lake. I should also tell you about the highest bungy in NZ, which you can watch from the lake side. This might sound more than a bit bonkers, but it's true; the big one is now the parabungy. What happens is that people go out parascending off the back of a speed boat, strapped to an "instructor". When the parachute has reached about 180m, the instructor releases the victim, who then falls towards the lake attached to a bungy rope which is in turn attached to the parachute! It looks completely ridiculous, but is probably great fun - don't think I'm going to try it though. Maybe if I come back to NZ one day! If that doesn't appeal to you, there are loads of other activities. How about river boarding? The idea is that you slip on a wet suit and a climbing helmet and then throw yourself down a river full of serious rapids with nothing more than a body board for help. This place is quite, quite insane.
There's also a bunch of Canadian pro mountain bikers staying on the campsite. They're in NZ for 2 1/2 months making an extreme mountain biking TV program and they look like they're pretty serious mentalists. They were practicing a few stunts around the campsite yesterday on their Santa Cruz Hecklers and V10's (pricey bikes for those not familiar). Seem nice enough and the I reckon the resulting program will be mighty entertaining.
Yesterday was a chilled out day in town, looking through the logistics involved in doing a couple of tramps up at the far end of the lake. My plan is to link two tramps together for another long jaunt through the wildernesses. This time I am going to do the Routeburn walk, which heads over towards Milford Sound and then come back in this direction on the Greenstone track. The Routeburn will be busy, since it is one of the most popular tramps in NZ, but the Greenstone should be quite quiet. The big advantage of walking back in this direction is that the road journey from the far end of the Routeburn back to Queenstown is about 350km, and I have to come back since I can't carry all my stuff and will have to leave some here in storage.
So that should fill up the next five days or so and I will head off tomorrow, giving me one more day in Queenstown before the serious tramping starts again. Just time to rest and pamper my feet and get the supplies in.
Have a lovely week everyone and I'll be back with tramping stories in a few days.
March 11, 2005
Cake?
It's back to Queenstown today, for one good reason - it's my birthday and this is a good place to spend it! It's a busy place with lots of people and loads of choices of places to spend the evening. I plan on watching the super 12 rugby games, having a couple of beers and meeting up with some random people who don't know me yet!
Twizel yesterday was nice. It's a sleepy little town, pretty much in the middle of nowhere, but it's surrounded by spectacular scenery. For those LOTR fans, it's where the battle of the Pelennor Fields and the infamous ride of the Rohirrim were filmed, so if you know the films, you'll know roughly what the landscape is like.
I was slightly surprised when the lady at the campsite suggested that I was brave to be camping, but understood it this morning when I opened my tent to look out on a frosty campsite! Fortunately my camping gear is good and my sleeping bag is toasty, so I didn't get cold during the night. It was a suprise though, considering that I was walking around in shorts and jandals only yesterday afternoon, but Twizel is a long way above sea level, so I suppose a bit of a chill in the night air is only to be expected.
I ended up getting the bus to Queenstown, but given that it's cheap and has a film to watch to fill up the three hours travel time, I reckon it wasn't too bad a choice. It was nice to be coming back to somewhere I've been before and know where everything is located. It can be a little wearing sometimes when you are constantly arriving in new places and having to go out and find everything all over again. I should point out that I'm not complaining though! The town hasn't changed much except that now the summer season is over, they're digging up the roads everywhere and blasting the dangerous cliffs on the road in. It's starting to look more wintery already way down here in the south. The mountains surrounding Queenstown have got a light dusting of fresh snow on their peaks and it all looks rather spectacular. I plan to spend a couple of days chilling out and doing some short walks that I didn't get round to last time I was here and then I may head off to do the Routeburn walk. The Routeburn is another of the "great walks" and everyone I've met who has done it says it's gorgeous. Of course, I'll let you know how plans progress.
Many thanks to everyone who sent me birthday emails and a special thanks to the Castle Camps Forbes clan, who called me this morning. It was great to speak to you all and I'm looking forward to seeing you all soon.
So take good care everyone, I'll be back on the blog in a couple of days.
Twizel yesterday was nice. It's a sleepy little town, pretty much in the middle of nowhere, but it's surrounded by spectacular scenery. For those LOTR fans, it's where the battle of the Pelennor Fields and the infamous ride of the Rohirrim were filmed, so if you know the films, you'll know roughly what the landscape is like.
I was slightly surprised when the lady at the campsite suggested that I was brave to be camping, but understood it this morning when I opened my tent to look out on a frosty campsite! Fortunately my camping gear is good and my sleeping bag is toasty, so I didn't get cold during the night. It was a suprise though, considering that I was walking around in shorts and jandals only yesterday afternoon, but Twizel is a long way above sea level, so I suppose a bit of a chill in the night air is only to be expected.
I ended up getting the bus to Queenstown, but given that it's cheap and has a film to watch to fill up the three hours travel time, I reckon it wasn't too bad a choice. It was nice to be coming back to somewhere I've been before and know where everything is located. It can be a little wearing sometimes when you are constantly arriving in new places and having to go out and find everything all over again. I should point out that I'm not complaining though! The town hasn't changed much except that now the summer season is over, they're digging up the roads everywhere and blasting the dangerous cliffs on the road in. It's starting to look more wintery already way down here in the south. The mountains surrounding Queenstown have got a light dusting of fresh snow on their peaks and it all looks rather spectacular. I plan to spend a couple of days chilling out and doing some short walks that I didn't get round to last time I was here and then I may head off to do the Routeburn walk. The Routeburn is another of the "great walks" and everyone I've met who has done it says it's gorgeous. Of course, I'll let you know how plans progress.
Many thanks to everyone who sent me birthday emails and a special thanks to the Castle Camps Forbes clan, who called me this morning. It was great to speak to you all and I'm looking forward to seeing you all soon.
So take good care everyone, I'll be back on the blog in a couple of days.
March 09, 2005
Back packing
So here I am, after nearly five months as an independent traveller I am now a real life backpacker! Andy and Sarah very kindly dropped me off in Twizel this morning before heading off back towards CHCH, so I've pitched up my tent and have various options of moving on from here tomorrow. I reckon that talking someone into giving me a lift down towards Queenstown or Wanaka will be favourite, closely followed by hitching and then taking a bus. Hitching is still a popular way of getting around NZ and I've seen and spoken to plenty of people who are doing it.
The weather at Mt. Cook wasn't exactly wonderful, but we managed a really nice walk yesterday before the rain came in and then in the late afternoon the cloud cleared and we had fabulous views of the big mountain, still covered in snow and looking very impressive. The mountains around Mt. Cook are littered with glaciers and seeing these huge lumps of blue ice filling the high valleys is really quite bizarre.
Not sure what I'm going to do in Twizel yet, but it seems like a nice place. It's pretty much in the middle of nowhere, surrounded by the rolling mackenzie high country, which is barren but gorgeous.
How are things back in the UK? Has it been snowing anymore or does it feel like spring is on it's way?
I'm off to explore this little town and see what there is to do for a day . . .
The weather at Mt. Cook wasn't exactly wonderful, but we managed a really nice walk yesterday before the rain came in and then in the late afternoon the cloud cleared and we had fabulous views of the big mountain, still covered in snow and looking very impressive. The mountains around Mt. Cook are littered with glaciers and seeing these huge lumps of blue ice filling the high valleys is really quite bizarre.
Not sure what I'm going to do in Twizel yet, but it seems like a nice place. It's pretty much in the middle of nowhere, surrounded by the rolling mackenzie high country, which is barren but gorgeous.
How are things back in the UK? Has it been snowing anymore or does it feel like spring is on it's way?
I'm off to explore this little town and see what there is to do for a day . . .
Cookin'
I've headed off from Christchurch (CHCH) in the company of Andy and Sarah. I had a good time in CHCH with the people I was staying with, nights at the local pub and such like. The lodger, called Ely (pronounced Eli) even took me for a tour of the area, showing me the good beaches and posh areas.
Now we're staying at Mount Cook village youth hostel. As you may know, Mt. Cook is the highest mountain in NZ and it has it's own little microclimate. At the moment, the microclimate is cold and wet, but we had a nice walk this morning, with views of lots of glaciers. I'll give you more chat and photos now, but I just wanted to give you a quick update. Hope you're all on top form. Be good.
Now we're staying at Mount Cook village youth hostel. As you may know, Mt. Cook is the highest mountain in NZ and it has it's own little microclimate. At the moment, the microclimate is cold and wet, but we had a nice walk this morning, with views of lots of glaciers. I'll give you more chat and photos now, but I just wanted to give you a quick update. Hope you're all on top form. Be good.
March 04, 2005
Shanks' Pony
Well, left my bike in the centre of Christchurch with a for sale note on it yesterday lunchtime and this afternoon I am bereft of bike. Sold it by the way, not lost it. Having bought it for about 800 pounds, I've just sold it for about 400 pounds with a dodgy engine and ridden it for 12400 Kms in four months. I reckon I've done ok, it's much cheaper than any other form of transport apart from hitching.
So now I need to find another way to get about. I hear there are camper van rental companies who need people to get their vans back to Auckland for the next influx of people (the British Lions fans). I may be able to get a camper van for nothing if I take it back! We'll see . . .
So now I need to find another way to get about. I hear there are camper van rental companies who need people to get their vans back to Auckland for the next influx of people (the British Lions fans). I may be able to get a camper van for nothing if I take it back! We'll see . . .
March 02, 2005
Bugger!
Keep on reading and you'll find out the reason for today's title. I think that the last time I wrote I was in Blenheim, up in the Marlborough wine world. Well since then I have travelled down the beautiful east coast and I am now in Christchurch. I stopped off in Kaikoura on the way through for a couple of nights, which is a small town now famous for it's ocean trips. From Kaikoura you can go out whale watching, swimming with seals or swimming with dolphins, as well as the ususal fishing trips, surfing etc etc. I stopped off partially because the trusty steed had started to play up, it was getting difficult to start from cold. So after having the compression checked, I gulped and headed straight for the one big city in the south.
As is turns out, the compression has suddenly dropped on three of the four cylinders on the steed. For those who don't know, this is not a good thing and potentially expensive. Since I am coming home next month (!) it's not worth me spending money on it. Fortunately a chap I met on the interislander ferry in January had given me his address in Christchurch and told me if I needed a place to crash for a few days, to come and see him. So I took him up on his offer and descended on him at his place of work yesterday, before popping round to a couple of local Kawasaki specialists for second opinions on the bike.
Gordon, the excellent Kiwi guy who is now putting me up, has been a diamond. We went out last night for a bit of food and then popped to his local for a quick beer. He instantly gave me a bed for as many nights as I need it and supplied me with a key to the door and told me to make myself at home. Sometimes Kiwi hospitality and trust is quite overwhelming!
Anyway, it looks like I'll have to try to find a buyer for the bike earlier than anticipated, but I should be able to keep travelling on it for a while. In some ways the timing is convenient, since I had planned to be in Christchurch next week to meet up with Andy and Sarah anyway. But there you have it, not an exciting few days, more of a pain in the proverbial. Of course, I'll let you know what happens and I'm sure that one way or another, I'll be off again in a few days. More to see and do as always. Take care everyone and see you in April.
As is turns out, the compression has suddenly dropped on three of the four cylinders on the steed. For those who don't know, this is not a good thing and potentially expensive. Since I am coming home next month (!) it's not worth me spending money on it. Fortunately a chap I met on the interislander ferry in January had given me his address in Christchurch and told me if I needed a place to crash for a few days, to come and see him. So I took him up on his offer and descended on him at his place of work yesterday, before popping round to a couple of local Kawasaki specialists for second opinions on the bike.
Gordon, the excellent Kiwi guy who is now putting me up, has been a diamond. We went out last night for a bit of food and then popped to his local for a quick beer. He instantly gave me a bed for as many nights as I need it and supplied me with a key to the door and told me to make myself at home. Sometimes Kiwi hospitality and trust is quite overwhelming!
Anyway, it looks like I'll have to try to find a buyer for the bike earlier than anticipated, but I should be able to keep travelling on it for a while. In some ways the timing is convenient, since I had planned to be in Christchurch next week to meet up with Andy and Sarah anyway. But there you have it, not an exciting few days, more of a pain in the proverbial. Of course, I'll let you know what happens and I'm sure that one way or another, I'll be off again in a few days. More to see and do as always. Take care everyone and see you in April.
February 26, 2005
Quietness
Sorry I haven't had much to say recently, it's been a quiet period after all that ridiculousness in the south. I've just been cruising around, taking in the sights and chilling out for a few days now. I've slowly sauntered up from the Canterbury plains area to Blenheim, which is in Marlborough (where all that wine comes from).
The Canterbury plains are a bit like the fens, flat, fertile farming land. They do have a couple of notable differences though. If you sit in the middle of the plains, it is about half an hour to the beautifully blue pacific ocean in one direction and about half an hour in the other direction to the southern alps and winter ski fields. I can't help but feel that they may have more to offer than the fens!
I've now travelled pretty much the whole east coast and it's spectacular for most of the way - the sea is clean and lovely and the beaches (mostly with black sand) are empty. Up here in Marlborough it is what you would expect of a wine region. It is very warm and dry, with acres of green vinyards running up to the feet of the hills, which are covered in grass the colour of straw. I'll be here until Monday, when I will head off to the hills and some greenery again.
Sorry there have been no photos posted for a while, but internet access in these areas is not easy to come by, let alone finding someone who is happy for you to start downloading software and plugging in your camera. I hope to find somewhere in the next week or so, but we'll see . . .
Ok, I'm off to the pub to catch more super 12 rugby, have fun everyone.
The Canterbury plains are a bit like the fens, flat, fertile farming land. They do have a couple of notable differences though. If you sit in the middle of the plains, it is about half an hour to the beautifully blue pacific ocean in one direction and about half an hour in the other direction to the southern alps and winter ski fields. I can't help but feel that they may have more to offer than the fens!
I've now travelled pretty much the whole east coast and it's spectacular for most of the way - the sea is clean and lovely and the beaches (mostly with black sand) are empty. Up here in Marlborough it is what you would expect of a wine region. It is very warm and dry, with acres of green vinyards running up to the feet of the hills, which are covered in grass the colour of straw. I'll be here until Monday, when I will head off to the hills and some greenery again.
Sorry there have been no photos posted for a while, but internet access in these areas is not easy to come by, let alone finding someone who is happy for you to start downloading software and plugging in your camera. I hope to find somewhere in the next week or so, but we'll see . . .
Ok, I'm off to the pub to catch more super 12 rugby, have fun everyone.
February 21, 2005
Mt. Sunday
Ok, since your not bored of the rings stuff yet (apparently), I'll tell you about Mt. Sunday. First of all, it's pretty remote. The trip up there involved about 50kms of high country gravel roads, which is an unusual experience on a road bike. It became increasingly obvious why most people pay someone to drive them up there in an off road 4 wheel drive vehicle. However, I'm sure that my sense of achievement in finally getting there, must have overshadowed their whole experience!
The place itself is really quite magical. It's like nowhere else I've ever been. It feels like an immense wilderness and the sensation of wide open space makes you feel very small indeed. I was lucky to arrive before the organised trips headed up there and had the place to myself.
So after the interesting road journey, it was time to head across country from the gravel road to Mt. Sunday. It's not the one hour walk I had heard about, more like half an hour. However, the neccessity to wade through knee deep, fast flowing freezing rivers had not quite been made clear to me! So there I finally sat, wet legged eating my packed lunch on the spot where Edoras had been built for the films. I have to tell you, the journey was well worth it. The views are amazing, as is the whole area. I can't get photos onto the blog from this computer, but even if I could, they will never do it justice.
So now I am back to my tiki touring and working my way around a whole bunch of small towns in the Canterbury area. It's a lovely relaxed kind of place with that end of summer feeling hanging in the air. The combine harvesters are out in force and the evenings are getting cooler, must be slowly getting towards time to head back to the northern hemisphere! Not quite yet though, more to do . . .
The place itself is really quite magical. It's like nowhere else I've ever been. It feels like an immense wilderness and the sensation of wide open space makes you feel very small indeed. I was lucky to arrive before the organised trips headed up there and had the place to myself.
So after the interesting road journey, it was time to head across country from the gravel road to Mt. Sunday. It's not the one hour walk I had heard about, more like half an hour. However, the neccessity to wade through knee deep, fast flowing freezing rivers had not quite been made clear to me! So there I finally sat, wet legged eating my packed lunch on the spot where Edoras had been built for the films. I have to tell you, the journey was well worth it. The views are amazing, as is the whole area. I can't get photos onto the blog from this computer, but even if I could, they will never do it justice.
So now I am back to my tiki touring and working my way around a whole bunch of small towns in the Canterbury area. It's a lovely relaxed kind of place with that end of summer feeling hanging in the air. The combine harvesters are out in force and the evenings are getting cooler, must be slowly getting towards time to head back to the northern hemisphere! Not quite yet though, more to do . . .
February 18, 2005
Canterbury tales
Arrived in the Canterbury high country this afternoon and am camped out in a small town called Methven. I decided when leaving Nelson, that instead of doing the sensible thing and nipping up to the Marlborough Sound while I was there, I would head back down country to Greymouth. I wanted to travel over the southern alps via Arthurs Pass and get back into the mountains.
Well, the best laid plans of mice and men, etc etc - If only I had done some planning in fact. As it turns out, the weather in Greymouth was appaling. Raining cats and dogs? More like raining sheep and cattle. You know that Hollywood rain which appears in films, when the weather goes from bone dry to tropical rainstorm in a split second? Well, that's what it was like, for a day and a half (the tropical rainstorm bit). Glad I got a decent tent!
So this morning the skys cleared and I made a run for it, up and over Arthurs Pass and down into Canterbury. The trip over the Pass was beautiful, big mountains with snow capped peaks, but warm and sunny down in the pass. The weather on the eastern side of the mountains is appreciably warmer and I feel much more relaxed now!
Tomorrow I am planning to go off for a trip out to Mt. Sunday. For those people already bored with the Lord of the Rings stuff, sorry, but this is far too good an opportunity to miss. Mt. Sunday was the location for Edoras and one of the most spectacular pieces of scenery in the films. I hope it lives up to expectations! I know that quite alot of the road out to the location is gravel back road, so it's going to take a while to get there, even before the one hour walk from the road to the location itself. Might be a packed lunch day!
Apart from that, not too much to tell, although I feel I should tell you about the cricket match that was on tv last night (it was raining in Greymouth remember!). Now I'm not usually one for cricket, but this was entertaining. Australia and NZ were playing their first ever game of a format called twenty20, which is played in England. NZ decided to play in a beige outfit which had not been used since the 1980's. As a tribute, many of the NZ players also grew ridiculous facial hair (moustaches and side burns) and wore 1980 towelling hats or John McEnroe headbands to complete the look. This is a professional team, one of the best in the world, playing an important international and they turned out looking like they were going to a fancy dress party, just for the fun of it. They didn't win the match, but they and the crowd of 29,500 obviously had such a good laugh that in these days of over paid and over serious professional sports, the whole episode just has to be applauded. I can't imagine many (if any) other international sports teams taking a similar approach, which is a great shame. May be sport would be better off if more professionals could have a laugh once in a while.
Ok, well that's enough for now. I'll be back in a couple of days and will try to get more photos up at the same time. Take care everyone.
Well, the best laid plans of mice and men, etc etc - If only I had done some planning in fact. As it turns out, the weather in Greymouth was appaling. Raining cats and dogs? More like raining sheep and cattle. You know that Hollywood rain which appears in films, when the weather goes from bone dry to tropical rainstorm in a split second? Well, that's what it was like, for a day and a half (the tropical rainstorm bit). Glad I got a decent tent!
So this morning the skys cleared and I made a run for it, up and over Arthurs Pass and down into Canterbury. The trip over the Pass was beautiful, big mountains with snow capped peaks, but warm and sunny down in the pass. The weather on the eastern side of the mountains is appreciably warmer and I feel much more relaxed now!
Tomorrow I am planning to go off for a trip out to Mt. Sunday. For those people already bored with the Lord of the Rings stuff, sorry, but this is far too good an opportunity to miss. Mt. Sunday was the location for Edoras and one of the most spectacular pieces of scenery in the films. I hope it lives up to expectations! I know that quite alot of the road out to the location is gravel back road, so it's going to take a while to get there, even before the one hour walk from the road to the location itself. Might be a packed lunch day!
Apart from that, not too much to tell, although I feel I should tell you about the cricket match that was on tv last night (it was raining in Greymouth remember!). Now I'm not usually one for cricket, but this was entertaining. Australia and NZ were playing their first ever game of a format called twenty20, which is played in England. NZ decided to play in a beige outfit which had not been used since the 1980's. As a tribute, many of the NZ players also grew ridiculous facial hair (moustaches and side burns) and wore 1980 towelling hats or John McEnroe headbands to complete the look. This is a professional team, one of the best in the world, playing an important international and they turned out looking like they were going to a fancy dress party, just for the fun of it. They didn't win the match, but they and the crowd of 29,500 obviously had such a good laugh that in these days of over paid and over serious professional sports, the whole episode just has to be applauded. I can't imagine many (if any) other international sports teams taking a similar approach, which is a great shame. May be sport would be better off if more professionals could have a laugh once in a while.
Ok, well that's enough for now. I'll be back in a couple of days and will try to get more photos up at the same time. Take care everyone.
February 14, 2005
Stuff and things
Here I sit in sunny Nelson (there was thunderstorm yesterday though) with not much to tell you. I'm all recovered from my little jaunt, although it may be some time before my feet forgive me for the abuse they took. So since I haven't done much I thought I would give you a quick lesson in Kiwi.
As far as beer goes, there are beers for areas. One of the beers which creates more feeling than others is Speights (pride of the south). In the north island, I heard the phrase "drink Speights, lose your mates" whereas in the south of the south island I was told to "wash my mouth out" for speaking of drinking anything else. I also heard a pub philosopher say "the mouth of a perfectly happy man is filled with beer". Quite liked that.
If you want to be understood, here are a few stock words and phrases you will need:
She'll be right - it'll be ok
Bugger - general dismay or dissapointment
Choice - very good
Tiki tour - wandering around (decided I'm a tiki tourist)
Good on ya - general approval
Dairy - a corner shop
Handle - glass of beer
Pie - staple food, usually meat, available everywhere
Howzitgoin - standard greeting
Wash out - road sign, part of the road has fallen down the hill
Gravel road - raod sign, road ahead is like a bad farm track
and my favourite . . .
Sweet as - seems to means just about anything good
So, that's all for the moment. I'll go away and do something now, so that I've got something to tell you about next time. Have a fun time everyone.
As far as beer goes, there are beers for areas. One of the beers which creates more feeling than others is Speights (pride of the south). In the north island, I heard the phrase "drink Speights, lose your mates" whereas in the south of the south island I was told to "wash my mouth out" for speaking of drinking anything else. I also heard a pub philosopher say "the mouth of a perfectly happy man is filled with beer". Quite liked that.
If you want to be understood, here are a few stock words and phrases you will need:
She'll be right - it'll be ok
Bugger - general dismay or dissapointment
Choice - very good
Tiki tour - wandering around (decided I'm a tiki tourist)
Good on ya - general approval
Dairy - a corner shop
Handle - glass of beer
Pie - staple food, usually meat, available everywhere
Howzitgoin - standard greeting
Wash out - road sign, part of the road has fallen down the hill
Gravel road - raod sign, road ahead is like a bad farm track
and my favourite . . .
Sweet as - seems to means just about anything good
So, that's all for the moment. I'll go away and do something now, so that I've got something to tell you about next time. Have a fun time everyone.
February 12, 2005
Hard Yacker
If you don't understand the title, get your handy Kiwi phrase books out, or just keep reading and it will become apparent. As promised, I have been off on a five day tramp taking the Abel Tasman Coastal Track on my way out and the Abel Tasman Inland Track on my way back to make a loop walk. Just to give you some idea, each of these walks is classified as 3 to 5 days, therefore you would have to say, 6 to 10 days total, but I stuck to my plan of 5 days.
From the moment I put my pack on my back, it was obvious that it was not going to be an easy amble. Clothes for 5 days for all weathers, food for 5 days, cooking gear, tent, sleeping bag and all of the rest of the stuff you might just need all adds up to quite a lot of weight on your back. The first couple of days were pretty easy going really. The Coastal Track is very well used and is more like a path than a track. The scenery is beautiful, in what I would imagine to be a kind of carribean way. Golden sandy beaches, gently lapped by bright turquoise waters. The sun shone all day and the only discomfort was aching feet from pounding the rock hard path for about 6 hours a day. I camped out by the beach for those first two nights, in campsites which had drinking water and all kinds of luxuries!
On the third day I would be finishing the Coastal Track and heading onto the Inland Track. At this point I will repeat for you what I wrote in my notebook at the end of the day, since it sums up the day pretty well!
"Left Totaranui at about 9:15, eschewing the short cut to the inland track, instead I went via Wharewharangi. Got there about 12:20 and left at 1:20 after having food and boiling some water (to purify it). Crossed Gibbs Hill and rested and ate at Pigeon Saddle, left there at 4:30. On the way to Awapoto Hut (the first hut on the inland track) my feet started to hurt really badly, water was running low and my thighs were cramping. With the sun going down behind the hills, it was starting to get dark in the bush already and I started to worry. Although I knew the hut couldn't be too far now, every step hurt and with about 100ml of water left, I couldn't drink too much. I guessed that the hut must be at the top of the hills (since it's the only helicopter access). I kept struggling upwards, following the track past lots of false peaks. Eventually I called out, to see if there was anyone at a hut nearby, no answer. I decided to go on until only a couple of mouthfulls of water were left and then I would dump my pack on the track and walk on without it. Just as this was about to become necessary, I saw the sign for the hut, which was only five minutes away."
This is a part of what I wrote, but gives you a flavour! As is turns out, the Inland Track is very, very hard work. The following day I was trapped at the next hut, literally soaked to the skin, while a fierce storm raged all afternoon and into the evening. On day five, my last day, I put my wet clothes back on and headed off for a seven hour trip through a wet and slippery forest, trudging up and down hill through water still cascading down the hill sides.
I should point out that I did not see a single person from the moment I started the inland track until the last point of shelter, about 2 hours from the end of the track. The last person to go through the huts on the track had passed through 5 days before me.
So there you have it. Mission accomplished, but not without a few scares and alot of effort.
Would I do it again? Not in a hurry.
Did I learn anything? Amongst other things, I learned that there is more than one definition of remote. Although I was not far from "civilisation" the only way in or out for me was the track. If I had been injured, it probably would have been days before anyone found me. An interesting thought!
So, anyone fancy a quick stroll . . . .
From the moment I put my pack on my back, it was obvious that it was not going to be an easy amble. Clothes for 5 days for all weathers, food for 5 days, cooking gear, tent, sleeping bag and all of the rest of the stuff you might just need all adds up to quite a lot of weight on your back. The first couple of days were pretty easy going really. The Coastal Track is very well used and is more like a path than a track. The scenery is beautiful, in what I would imagine to be a kind of carribean way. Golden sandy beaches, gently lapped by bright turquoise waters. The sun shone all day and the only discomfort was aching feet from pounding the rock hard path for about 6 hours a day. I camped out by the beach for those first two nights, in campsites which had drinking water and all kinds of luxuries!
On the third day I would be finishing the Coastal Track and heading onto the Inland Track. At this point I will repeat for you what I wrote in my notebook at the end of the day, since it sums up the day pretty well!
"Left Totaranui at about 9:15, eschewing the short cut to the inland track, instead I went via Wharewharangi. Got there about 12:20 and left at 1:20 after having food and boiling some water (to purify it). Crossed Gibbs Hill and rested and ate at Pigeon Saddle, left there at 4:30. On the way to Awapoto Hut (the first hut on the inland track) my feet started to hurt really badly, water was running low and my thighs were cramping. With the sun going down behind the hills, it was starting to get dark in the bush already and I started to worry. Although I knew the hut couldn't be too far now, every step hurt and with about 100ml of water left, I couldn't drink too much. I guessed that the hut must be at the top of the hills (since it's the only helicopter access). I kept struggling upwards, following the track past lots of false peaks. Eventually I called out, to see if there was anyone at a hut nearby, no answer. I decided to go on until only a couple of mouthfulls of water were left and then I would dump my pack on the track and walk on without it. Just as this was about to become necessary, I saw the sign for the hut, which was only five minutes away."
This is a part of what I wrote, but gives you a flavour! As is turns out, the Inland Track is very, very hard work. The following day I was trapped at the next hut, literally soaked to the skin, while a fierce storm raged all afternoon and into the evening. On day five, my last day, I put my wet clothes back on and headed off for a seven hour trip through a wet and slippery forest, trudging up and down hill through water still cascading down the hill sides.
I should point out that I did not see a single person from the moment I started the inland track until the last point of shelter, about 2 hours from the end of the track. The last person to go through the huts on the track had passed through 5 days before me.
So there you have it. Mission accomplished, but not without a few scares and alot of effort.
Would I do it again? Not in a hurry.
Did I learn anything? Amongst other things, I learned that there is more than one definition of remote. Although I was not far from "civilisation" the only way in or out for me was the track. If I had been injured, it probably would have been days before anyone found me. An interesting thought!
So, anyone fancy a quick stroll . . . .
February 06, 2005
Up north - down south
After a few days travelling up the west coast I am now back in the north of the lovely south island. The west coast was just a chilled out relaxing place to go. Didn't really do much, except go for walks in the forests, chill on the deserted beaches and watch the Wellington Sevens rugby tournament (2 days) with the locals in a pub.
Now I'm just outside the Abel Tasman national park and tomorrow I'm off tramping again. This time, for those who know the area, I am doing the Abel Tasman coastal track, but then going straight on to the inland track. That makes five days walking with my loaded rucksack on my back, complete with food for five days and my tent! It should be quite hard going given the temperatures and the fact that I've given myself quite a lot of ground to cover everyday, but it'll be a challenge after too much time doing not much.
I hope you like the new photos, and thanks for all the comments and emails I am getting. It's really good to feel like I'm still in touch, especially while I'm all alone in the south island! Keep them coming, even though I won't have internet access until I get back from the tramp.
In case you are wondering, the picture of the bridge shows a bridge which is not only one way, meaning traffic from one direction has to give way to traffic from the other, but it is also shared by the trains, who all the road traffic give way to! It's and odd set up and slightly unnerving, but seems to work. By the way, this is not the only one I have come across.
So anyway, sorry I haven't got lots of exciting news about sharks, bungy jumps or helicopters this time, but I'll see what I can do in the next couple of weeks. Be good one and all.
Now I'm just outside the Abel Tasman national park and tomorrow I'm off tramping again. This time, for those who know the area, I am doing the Abel Tasman coastal track, but then going straight on to the inland track. That makes five days walking with my loaded rucksack on my back, complete with food for five days and my tent! It should be quite hard going given the temperatures and the fact that I've given myself quite a lot of ground to cover everyday, but it'll be a challenge after too much time doing not much.
I hope you like the new photos, and thanks for all the comments and emails I am getting. It's really good to feel like I'm still in touch, especially while I'm all alone in the south island! Keep them coming, even though I won't have internet access until I get back from the tramp.
In case you are wondering, the picture of the bridge shows a bridge which is not only one way, meaning traffic from one direction has to give way to traffic from the other, but it is also shared by the trains, who all the road traffic give way to! It's and odd set up and slightly unnerving, but seems to work. By the way, this is not the only one I have come across.
So anyway, sorry I haven't got lots of exciting news about sharks, bungy jumps or helicopters this time, but I'll see what I can do in the next couple of weeks. Be good one and all.
February 03, 2005
Likey Hikey (Heli Style)
So I've been sauntering up the west coast from Wanaka and now I'm in Hokitika. It's been sweltering recently with the last few days hitting well over 30 deg C in the shade. It's been so hot that I've even had to forego bare feet and get my jandals (flip flops) on, because the pavements and roads have been too hot to walk on. I'm not complaining mind you, the west coast is usually the wettest part of NZ with only a few sunny, dry days per year.
So what do you do when it's this hot? Obviously you jump on a helicopter and get out hiking on a glacier! Sweet as . . . (as the kiwi's say). A very, very odd experience, but well worth doing. I chose to grace the Fox glacier with my presence, since it is the less visited of the two main glaciers. The helicopter ride up was excellent, with lots of tight banking turns and close up views of waterfalls. The so called helipad on the glacier was just a small fairly flat area of ice - interesting. So anyway, on with the crampons and away we went for three hours ambling around on a huge flow of ice, which is currently travelling down the valley at a rate of 1 metre per day, with lush rain forest covering the valley sides all around us and views out to the deep blue Tasman sea, only a few kilometres away. Nice and cool up there, but still t-shirt and shorts weather!
Tomorrow I will head off again, still heading north, but haven't decided on my next destination yet. I can leave that decision until the tent is packed away and the rucksack is full.
More photos will appear when I find an internet cafe (although I'm currently in a camping/fishing shop) where I can connect up my camera and download the necessary software.
Take it easy and I'll be back before long.
So what do you do when it's this hot? Obviously you jump on a helicopter and get out hiking on a glacier! Sweet as . . . (as the kiwi's say). A very, very odd experience, but well worth doing. I chose to grace the Fox glacier with my presence, since it is the less visited of the two main glaciers. The helicopter ride up was excellent, with lots of tight banking turns and close up views of waterfalls. The so called helipad on the glacier was just a small fairly flat area of ice - interesting. So anyway, on with the crampons and away we went for three hours ambling around on a huge flow of ice, which is currently travelling down the valley at a rate of 1 metre per day, with lush rain forest covering the valley sides all around us and views out to the deep blue Tasman sea, only a few kilometres away. Nice and cool up there, but still t-shirt and shorts weather!
Tomorrow I will head off again, still heading north, but haven't decided on my next destination yet. I can leave that decision until the tent is packed away and the rucksack is full.
More photos will appear when I find an internet cafe (although I'm currently in a camping/fishing shop) where I can connect up my camera and download the necessary software.
Take it easy and I'll be back before long.
January 30, 2005
Wanaka
After the big Doubtful Sound trip, it seemed like I should get away and stroll in the hills for a bit, so here I am in Wanaka. Scenic? I should coco. It's pretty gorgeous around here, just by the Mt. Aspiring national park, with the lovely Lake Wanaka surrounded by mountains. Many people have told me how much they like Wanaka and I can see why. It's a fantastic place to just chill. I would dearly love to come back here when the snow comes in and the ski/boarding season kicks off . . .
Yesterday, for some unknown reason, it seemed like it would be a good idea to walk up to the peak of Mt. Roy, which is not far from my campsite. The walk is a vertical climb of 1300m (which is 30% higher than Ben Nevis), but the actual track just goes on and on! My legs ache this morning, so it's a day of relaxing coming up. I may have to go to the infamous Cinema Paradiso in town. Apparently it's something of an experience, since there are no seats as such, just bits of furniture and a Morris Minor (which you can sit in to watch the film). You can also order meals and beer and just take it into the cinema with you. Should be a pleasant evening!
I hope everyone is in tip top form, so take good care and I hope you like the new photos.
Yesterday, for some unknown reason, it seemed like it would be a good idea to walk up to the peak of Mt. Roy, which is not far from my campsite. The walk is a vertical climb of 1300m (which is 30% higher than Ben Nevis), but the actual track just goes on and on! My legs ache this morning, so it's a day of relaxing coming up. I may have to go to the infamous Cinema Paradiso in town. Apparently it's something of an experience, since there are no seats as such, just bits of furniture and a Morris Minor (which you can sit in to watch the film). You can also order meals and beer and just take it into the cinema with you. Should be a pleasant evening!
I hope everyone is in tip top form, so take good care and I hope you like the new photos.
January 27, 2005
The best 100 quid I ever spent . . .
What on earth do I tell you about my trip to Doubtless Sound? It was spectacular, fantastic, superb, and really quite good!
The trip was with "Chris and Diane" and was on a boat with only 6 berths and as it turned out there were only 5 of us. It started with a trip across Lake Manapouri, our skipper (Chris) picking us up on the other side of the lake. We were driven over a fabulous road, which at 12 miles long worked out at 100 NZ dollars per inch to build! It's not even tarmac, it's only gravel.
Chris loaded us up onto his boat (which is lovely) and then set out onto the Sound. Just so you know, Doubtless Sound is ten times larger than Milford Sound and gets to 430m deep. It's huge, remote and just as nature intended. The area is "blessed" with up to 7 metres of rain a year, making it real rainforest area. Despite this, it was all clear blue skies and sunshine when we arrived and stayed like that all day.
Chris proceeded to take us around the whole of the Sound, including going out to the Tasman Sea, cooked us fabulous food (including crayfish and venison) and took us to top fishing spots. I shocked and slightly unnerved myself by catching a shark which was probably about 5 foot long! We caught other stuff too and had fresh sushi, straight from the Sound.
At 6:30 in the morning, just as we were setting off after mooring up for the night, we saw dolphins and soon had four or five large dolphins swimming along with us, jumping about and racing around the front of the boat. The other people on the trip were two nice german ladies and a couple from . . . Bristol! The Briz couple, Simon and Alex(andra) were really cool and helped the time fly by. All in all, we were at Doubtful Sound for about 23 hours, which passed by more quickly than I ever could have imagined.
I am now skipping Milford Sound for the moment, since I am reliably informed I will most probably be dissapointed if I go straight from Doubtful Sound. Should anyone be thinking of coming to NZ, I simply cannot recommend this trip enough. It was an experience I will treasure forever.
The trip was with "Chris and Diane" and was on a boat with only 6 berths and as it turned out there were only 5 of us. It started with a trip across Lake Manapouri, our skipper (Chris) picking us up on the other side of the lake. We were driven over a fabulous road, which at 12 miles long worked out at 100 NZ dollars per inch to build! It's not even tarmac, it's only gravel.
Chris loaded us up onto his boat (which is lovely) and then set out onto the Sound. Just so you know, Doubtless Sound is ten times larger than Milford Sound and gets to 430m deep. It's huge, remote and just as nature intended. The area is "blessed" with up to 7 metres of rain a year, making it real rainforest area. Despite this, it was all clear blue skies and sunshine when we arrived and stayed like that all day.
Chris proceeded to take us around the whole of the Sound, including going out to the Tasman Sea, cooked us fabulous food (including crayfish and venison) and took us to top fishing spots. I shocked and slightly unnerved myself by catching a shark which was probably about 5 foot long! We caught other stuff too and had fresh sushi, straight from the Sound.
At 6:30 in the morning, just as we were setting off after mooring up for the night, we saw dolphins and soon had four or five large dolphins swimming along with us, jumping about and racing around the front of the boat. The other people on the trip were two nice german ladies and a couple from . . . Bristol! The Briz couple, Simon and Alex(andra) were really cool and helped the time fly by. All in all, we were at Doubtful Sound for about 23 hours, which passed by more quickly than I ever could have imagined.
I am now skipping Milford Sound for the moment, since I am reliably informed I will most probably be dissapointed if I go straight from Doubtful Sound. Should anyone be thinking of coming to NZ, I simply cannot recommend this trip enough. It was an experience I will treasure forever.
January 25, 2005
In Doubt
Well, actually I'm camped at Lake Manapouri at the moment, but tomorrow I am off to Doubtful Sound. Although Milford Sound is the Fiord which is most famous, the people I have met and the locals tell me Doubtful Sound is better, it's just that Milford is more accessible. And so my trip will take me accross Lake Manapouri by boat and then over the most expensive stretch of road in NZ (only accessed by boat and only goes to Doubtful Sound!).Then I will spend the remainder of the day and the night on board a small boat cruising around Doubtful Sound, fishing, drinking beer etc, before heading back on the following day. Should be great, especially since the sky is blue, the temperature is gorgeous and the forecast is for more of the same.
Just so you know, yes I saw penguins, seals, sealions etc and the Catlins coast really is very quiet. Hardly anyone around, petrol stations which only open from 9am to 1pm and don't open at all on Sundays and empty roads. I also went to the southern most point on the South Island, so I can tick that off the list! Anyway, got to go and sit in the sun. Be good one and all . . .
Just so you know, yes I saw penguins, seals, sealions etc and the Catlins coast really is very quiet. Hardly anyone around, petrol stations which only open from 9am to 1pm and don't open at all on Sundays and empty roads. I also went to the southern most point on the South Island, so I can tick that off the list! Anyway, got to go and sit in the sun. Be good one and all . . .
January 20, 2005
Scotland?
Crikey, I now know what I need to do to generate lots of comments. It seems that jumping off a bridge with an elastic band tied to your ankles does the trick.
It's great to hear from my mum as well as Chas and Carol. I hope you're all very well (and get well soon to the George St collective). By the way, there's skiing down here as well you know - just not much of it at the moment.
I would also like to thank Anna for the interesting dry stone walling gift shop information, but I will obviously be opening my own virtual walling experience with real cheese improvements to be added in a further extension to the initial "pleasure dome" as time and funds allow, a gift extravaganza is built in and will soon be available in cake form.
Anyway, I am now in Dunedin, which has a very scottish feel to it. The rest of NZ swears that the people here have a scottish element to their accents, but I haven't heard any of it yet. To add to the scottish feel, it has stone buildings (unusual in nz) as well as the steepest street in the world - check out the Guinnes book of records if you are doubtful. I arrived here yesterday via the plains of Rohan - also known as central Otago. A beautiful area with bizarre landscapes and huge views towards the southern alps.
Today I will be off to explore Dunedin before heading off around the Catlins coast to Invercargil. The Catlins coast is supposed to be one of the least visited areas of NZ with wild beaches, penguins (not the chocolate ones), dolphins, sealions, whales and many other creatures not generally seen in the north sea. Whether I will get to see any, let alone photograph any remains to be seen. From there I may head to the Fiordlands - Milford Sound and all that business.
Since I'm heading to the back country, I doubt I'll get email access again until at least Invercargil, which will be a few days. In the meantime, have fun doing whatever it is that you are up to!
It's great to hear from my mum as well as Chas and Carol. I hope you're all very well (and get well soon to the George St collective). By the way, there's skiing down here as well you know - just not much of it at the moment.
I would also like to thank Anna for the interesting dry stone walling gift shop information, but I will obviously be opening my own virtual walling experience with real cheese improvements to be added in a further extension to the initial "pleasure dome" as time and funds allow, a gift extravaganza is built in and will soon be available in cake form.
Anyway, I am now in Dunedin, which has a very scottish feel to it. The rest of NZ swears that the people here have a scottish element to their accents, but I haven't heard any of it yet. To add to the scottish feel, it has stone buildings (unusual in nz) as well as the steepest street in the world - check out the Guinnes book of records if you are doubtful. I arrived here yesterday via the plains of Rohan - also known as central Otago. A beautiful area with bizarre landscapes and huge views towards the southern alps.
Today I will be off to explore Dunedin before heading off around the Catlins coast to Invercargil. The Catlins coast is supposed to be one of the least visited areas of NZ with wild beaches, penguins (not the chocolate ones), dolphins, sealions, whales and many other creatures not generally seen in the north sea. Whether I will get to see any, let alone photograph any remains to be seen. From there I may head to the Fiordlands - Milford Sound and all that business.
Since I'm heading to the back country, I doubt I'll get email access again until at least Invercargil, which will be a few days. In the meantime, have fun doing whatever it is that you are up to!
January 18, 2005
Bouncy bouncy
If you want to see grace and style in action, go to www.ajhackett.com.
From the home page, click on "Daily Photos".
On the next page choose the Kawarau Bridge bungy site.
In the media search box type in the following: AJHK501171804645
Nice eh?
You can also search for another photo with the same identifier, except replace the final digit with a 6.
Hope you enjoy them! Don't buy any though, 'cos I've already got them . . .
Sarah and Sally left this morning (nursing classic NZ hangovers) and I will be moving on from Queenstown tomorrow, not sure where to yet. I'll be back here to do the big day trip sometime in Feb, when it's all quiet.
By the way, if anyone wants a job, there is an opening with "safari of the rings" driving a Land Rover round the local LOTR filming sites giving guided tours. Tempting! Take care my lovelies.
From the home page, click on "Daily Photos".
On the next page choose the Kawarau Bridge bungy site.
In the media search box type in the following: AJHK501171804645
Nice eh?
You can also search for another photo with the same identifier, except replace the final digit with a 6.
Hope you enjoy them! Don't buy any though, 'cos I've already got them . . .
Sarah and Sally left this morning (nursing classic NZ hangovers) and I will be moving on from Queenstown tomorrow, not sure where to yet. I'll be back here to do the big day trip sometime in Feb, when it's all quiet.
By the way, if anyone wants a job, there is an opening with "safari of the rings" driving a Land Rover round the local LOTR filming sites giving guided tours. Tempting! Take care my lovelies.
January 16, 2005
The extreme capital of the world
There is no shortage of daft things to do in Queenstown and it doesn't take long to find out just how many ridiculous things are available. I have now decided which ones I should participate in - more in a couple of minutes.
Sarah Loo and Sally arrived in town yesterday from Wanaka and we continued where I had left off on saturday, which was watching rugby and quaffing a few beers. Over this weekend there was a national seven a side rugby competition in town. Being a charity event, it was free to go and watch, which suited me just fine! The standard of the rugby was high and I even recognised a few names out on the pitch. A great way to pass a couple of days, especially with the added entertainment of somewhat intoxicated crowd members creating extra spectacles. The best ones were the british guy who was trying to get a mexican wave going and the kiwi who gave impromptu "dance" leadership for a rendition of YMCA before the finals.
This morning Sarah and Sally are off on the Shotover Jet Boat ride - high speed stupidity through the local gorges in the river rapids. Then this afternoon I will be doing the one and only original AJ Hackett bungy jump from a very scenic bridge. That is to be my first daft thing in Queenstown.
There is also a trip I am planning to do, but may come back after the main holday season is over. The trip will be my big lavish expense, which all happens in one day. I will ride out on the Shotover jet boat to Skippers Canyon, where I then get transported to the top before a 1 hour single track mountain bike descent back into the canyon. Once I am back at the bottom, I will get picked up by helicopter and flown out over the mountains! Pretty cool trip huh?! I think I'll get the bungy out of the way before I worry about exactly when to do the lavish one.
So what have you all been up to? What is happening out there in the big wide world? Tell me everything, all at once . . .
Sarah Loo and Sally arrived in town yesterday from Wanaka and we continued where I had left off on saturday, which was watching rugby and quaffing a few beers. Over this weekend there was a national seven a side rugby competition in town. Being a charity event, it was free to go and watch, which suited me just fine! The standard of the rugby was high and I even recognised a few names out on the pitch. A great way to pass a couple of days, especially with the added entertainment of somewhat intoxicated crowd members creating extra spectacles. The best ones were the british guy who was trying to get a mexican wave going and the kiwi who gave impromptu "dance" leadership for a rendition of YMCA before the finals.
This morning Sarah and Sally are off on the Shotover Jet Boat ride - high speed stupidity through the local gorges in the river rapids. Then this afternoon I will be doing the one and only original AJ Hackett bungy jump from a very scenic bridge. That is to be my first daft thing in Queenstown.
There is also a trip I am planning to do, but may come back after the main holday season is over. The trip will be my big lavish expense, which all happens in one day. I will ride out on the Shotover jet boat to Skippers Canyon, where I then get transported to the top before a 1 hour single track mountain bike descent back into the canyon. Once I am back at the bottom, I will get picked up by helicopter and flown out over the mountains! Pretty cool trip huh?! I think I'll get the bungy out of the way before I worry about exactly when to do the lavish one.
So what have you all been up to? What is happening out there in the big wide world? Tell me everything, all at once . . .
January 14, 2005
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