So here I am, back in Auckland for Christmas with my exploration of the north island almost complete. From Waitomo I headed up to Cambridge near Hamilton. Couldn't find any of the ususal pubs and all the streets seemed to have moved about, so I had to stay in on a camp site! A picture is below, so you will be able to see that's it's not much like Cambridge back home, the sun was shining for one thing.
From Cambridge I went up to a small place called Hopuhopu where I met up with a guy called Julian, who I met in the Coromandel. He is a maori who works for his tribe, the Tainui. He had given me his business card in the Coromandel and told me to drop by, since I was very interested to learn more about maori culture. Despite being busy trying to get work tied up before the christmas/summer holiday break, he took the time to show me around the tribal administration and the Tainui college, which was extremely impressive. The college is opening next academic year and is for post graduate research into ecological and environmental issues and well as the study of matters relating to indiginous people from all over the world. They are already set up to carry out exchanges with inuit and aborigini (might have spelt that wrong) students. They also have a workshop making huge maori carvings as well as the debating chamber for the Tainui administration committee - for want of a better description. It was a very interesting visit, for which I was exceptionally grateful, especially given that Julian has also offerred to take me to a very important marae - which is where maori conduct most of their local social interaction. Should be very cool.
So now I'm back in St. Heliers and have slept in a proper bed for the first time in about 6 weeks. Ah, heavenly! The preparations for christmas are just about complete over here, but the weather actually ain't too good at the moment, so sitting on the beach might be out for christmas day.
I wish you all a fabulous christmas, I hope you all eat and drink to excess and as a result are very merry (instead of sick). Take care everyone.
December 23, 2004
December 19, 2004
Worms in the dark
This morning I underwent one of the most surreal experiences I have ever had - and that's saying something.
I now understand why so many people come to Waitomo to see the glowworms doing their stuff. Of course, I couldn't just go to the main glowworm cave 500m from the campsite. Instead I went to a slightly less commercial area and went on a guided underground thingy. After going through the initial limestone cavern, everyone apart from the guide switched of their torches and we went on in the near pitch blackness. We came to an underground river where one we got on board an inflatable boat, the guide switched off his torch as well and we floated down the river with the only light coming from the glowworms which covered the roof of the tunnel.
It is impossible to explain what the experience is like, you have to do it to appreciate it! Once your eyes become accustomed to the dark, you actuall only need the glowworms in order to see where you're going - as we discovered after getting out of the boat and continuing on foot, with all torches still switched off.
Despite some concerns I had about it being claustrophobic, it was all easy going and very, very well worth doing. I have to say that the fact that we could hear a very noisy waterfall ahead when we were floating downstream was somewhat disturbing though. Not quite sure that I'm ready for the black water rafting though (racing through underground tunnels in the pitch black on a rubber ring). Maybe if I had company with me, but not on me tod!
So, if you come to NZ, come to Waitomo and go to one of the less visited caves . . .
I now understand why so many people come to Waitomo to see the glowworms doing their stuff. Of course, I couldn't just go to the main glowworm cave 500m from the campsite. Instead I went to a slightly less commercial area and went on a guided underground thingy. After going through the initial limestone cavern, everyone apart from the guide switched of their torches and we went on in the near pitch blackness. We came to an underground river where one we got on board an inflatable boat, the guide switched off his torch as well and we floated down the river with the only light coming from the glowworms which covered the roof of the tunnel.
It is impossible to explain what the experience is like, you have to do it to appreciate it! Once your eyes become accustomed to the dark, you actuall only need the glowworms in order to see where you're going - as we discovered after getting out of the boat and continuing on foot, with all torches still switched off.
Despite some concerns I had about it being claustrophobic, it was all easy going and very, very well worth doing. I have to say that the fact that we could hear a very noisy waterfall ahead when we were floating downstream was somewhat disturbing though. Not quite sure that I'm ready for the black water rafting though (racing through underground tunnels in the pitch black on a rubber ring). Maybe if I had company with me, but not on me tod!
So, if you come to NZ, come to Waitomo and go to one of the less visited caves . . .
December 18, 2004
Cavernous things
Well, here I am in Waitomo which is a land of underground caverns, glow worms and limestone ridiculousness.
Jos, still feeling ill after his South America trip, has taken his various stomach problems to Australia for a short holiday. All being well, he will return along with Tris and Julie between christmas and new year.
I can't quite believe that christmas is just around the corner. After a few days of rain and wind, the sun is now shining again and it'll be time to break out the sun cream and the shorts again this afternoon. I am hoping that when I get back to Auckland and see Andy and Sarah again, with Sally and Madelaine arriving on Christmas eve, it'll all start to feel more festive.
I spent a few nights at a place called Stratford not far from Mt. Taranaki with Jos prior to his departure, but didn't get up the mountain until after he had gone. The mountain is quite bizarre, being a classic volcanic cone mountain, about 2500m high with snow on the top, in the middle of a flat green dairy farming area. The views from the mountain are pretty cool as you look down over alpine woodland that then turns into rainforest before becoming dairy pasture. Really most strange.
From Stratford I moved on to New Plymouth, which is not much like the original apart from the fact that it's by the sea. The sea in this case is the Tasman, which is a lovely turquoise colour instead of the grey/brown sea off the coast of the "old" Plymouth. The city is very laid back and has a thriving arty community. I spent my time there wandering around galleries and watching the Wind Wand sway around. The Wind Wand is a 45m high carbon fibre pole on the sea front, which sways with the wind, designed by a local kinetic artist. Sounds a tad rubbish, but it's actually an impressive "sculpture", especially with the high winds which were blowing at the time I was there.
And so today I cruised up to Waitomo, where I plan to do some walks, see some caves and enjoy the re-appearing summer.
Are you all prepared for christmas then? I hope so. Any snow on the way? Let me know everything . . . .
Jos, still feeling ill after his South America trip, has taken his various stomach problems to Australia for a short holiday. All being well, he will return along with Tris and Julie between christmas and new year.
I can't quite believe that christmas is just around the corner. After a few days of rain and wind, the sun is now shining again and it'll be time to break out the sun cream and the shorts again this afternoon. I am hoping that when I get back to Auckland and see Andy and Sarah again, with Sally and Madelaine arriving on Christmas eve, it'll all start to feel more festive.
I spent a few nights at a place called Stratford not far from Mt. Taranaki with Jos prior to his departure, but didn't get up the mountain until after he had gone. The mountain is quite bizarre, being a classic volcanic cone mountain, about 2500m high with snow on the top, in the middle of a flat green dairy farming area. The views from the mountain are pretty cool as you look down over alpine woodland that then turns into rainforest before becoming dairy pasture. Really most strange.
From Stratford I moved on to New Plymouth, which is not much like the original apart from the fact that it's by the sea. The sea in this case is the Tasman, which is a lovely turquoise colour instead of the grey/brown sea off the coast of the "old" Plymouth. The city is very laid back and has a thriving arty community. I spent my time there wandering around galleries and watching the Wind Wand sway around. The Wind Wand is a 45m high carbon fibre pole on the sea front, which sways with the wind, designed by a local kinetic artist. Sounds a tad rubbish, but it's actually an impressive "sculpture", especially with the high winds which were blowing at the time I was there.
And so today I cruised up to Waitomo, where I plan to do some walks, see some caves and enjoy the re-appearing summer.
Are you all prepared for christmas then? I hope so. Any snow on the way? Let me know everything . . . .
December 13, 2004
Chillin' wit Jos
Just spending a few days kicking back in Taupo. Jos arrived from South America a couple of days and is recovering from various food related infections which he picked up there. So we are just ambling around the area slowly and not much else!
I reckon it'll be two or three days before I am off again and then I will be heading west towards Mt Taranaki before turning north and making my way back to Auckland for christmas. I plan to be at Andy and Sarah's from 22 Dec, where we shortly afterwards will be joined by Sally, Madelaine and Sarah (L). Should be a christams full of barbeques, beers and fun!
The weather here has not been too good, you will be pleased to hear. Windy and overcast, but shorts are still ok and due to the deceptive clouds, I have managed to turn my face red through lack of sun protection! It must be about the fifth time I've burned my nose since I arrived.
Well that's all for now, when I've got more news, I will return . . .
I reckon it'll be two or three days before I am off again and then I will be heading west towards Mt Taranaki before turning north and making my way back to Auckland for christmas. I plan to be at Andy and Sarah's from 22 Dec, where we shortly afterwards will be joined by Sally, Madelaine and Sarah (L). Should be a christams full of barbeques, beers and fun!
The weather here has not been too good, you will be pleased to hear. Windy and overcast, but shorts are still ok and due to the deceptive clouds, I have managed to turn my face red through lack of sun protection! It must be about the fifth time I've burned my nose since I arrived.
Well that's all for now, when I've got more news, I will return . . .
December 10, 2004
Mountains and snow
Ah, hello everyone. I am now relaxed in Taupo after having spent a couple of days in the Tongariro National Park.
I was camped in Whakapapa village, which is not really a village at all but just a collection of about five buildings and a huge hotel, on the slopes of Mt Ruapehu. Just up the road was Whakapapa ski field where quite a bit of the Mordor part of the Lord of the Rings was filmed. The snow was still hanging around and my campsite was not far below the snow line, so it was a touch chilly. It's a bizarre place where along with fire escape instructions, the buildings come equipped with instructions of where to go and what to do if the mountain should erupt! It's still a live volcano and has been known to cause the odd problem . . . However, that makes the landscape all the more interesting, since the lava flows and such like have not really been weathered down and there are not many plants which have taken hold.
I would have liked to have walked the northern circuit around Mt Tongariro while I was there, but the winds were too high and the cloud kept on dropping down too far. But having spoken to Andy and Sarah a couple of nights ago, it looks like I will be back there with them early in the new year.
Jos should be arriving in NZ today, but I don't know his flight details. Hopefully he'll be contacting me and nipping down to Taupo to say hello. It's not as though I haven't seen anyone I know for a while though. I keep bumping into people I've met before! On the lake Waikaremoana walk a met two people I had already met in NZ, then in Napier and Whakapapa I met people who had been staying in the same huts as me on the walk. I think that I am now off the type of route that they will be taking, since most of them are heading towards the south island now. Having said that, I have got a couple of mobile phone numbers so I'll try to catch up with them when I get south.
Anyhow, I'm now rambling on. So take good care one and all and I'll be back in a few days.
I was camped in Whakapapa village, which is not really a village at all but just a collection of about five buildings and a huge hotel, on the slopes of Mt Ruapehu. Just up the road was Whakapapa ski field where quite a bit of the Mordor part of the Lord of the Rings was filmed. The snow was still hanging around and my campsite was not far below the snow line, so it was a touch chilly. It's a bizarre place where along with fire escape instructions, the buildings come equipped with instructions of where to go and what to do if the mountain should erupt! It's still a live volcano and has been known to cause the odd problem . . . However, that makes the landscape all the more interesting, since the lava flows and such like have not really been weathered down and there are not many plants which have taken hold.
I would have liked to have walked the northern circuit around Mt Tongariro while I was there, but the winds were too high and the cloud kept on dropping down too far. But having spoken to Andy and Sarah a couple of nights ago, it looks like I will be back there with them early in the new year.
Jos should be arriving in NZ today, but I don't know his flight details. Hopefully he'll be contacting me and nipping down to Taupo to say hello. It's not as though I haven't seen anyone I know for a while though. I keep bumping into people I've met before! On the lake Waikaremoana walk a met two people I had already met in NZ, then in Napier and Whakapapa I met people who had been staying in the same huts as me on the walk. I think that I am now off the type of route that they will be taking, since most of them are heading towards the south island now. Having said that, I have got a couple of mobile phone numbers so I'll try to catch up with them when I get south.
Anyhow, I'm now rambling on. So take good care one and all and I'll be back in a few days.
December 05, 2004
December 04, 2004
Tramps
Just been tramping. That doesn't mean that I have been nursing tins of Tennents extra strong lager, sleeping in doorways and mumbling incoherently (although that may be true). Tramping is the NZ word for hiking or walking.
Yesterday I finished a four day tramp around Lake Waikaremoana, which is simply gorgeous. It is a large lake about 500m above sea level in the middle of a huge area of untouched forest and bush land. Overnight you stay in huts dotted around the wlaking route, which are really just bunk rooms with a communal area for cooking and chatting. The walking was great, you could wander through the dense bush and along the lake side without seeing a single person all day. There was a side track up to a beautiful waterfall in the middle of nowhere and from the highest hut you could see Hawkes bay and the pacific ocean in one direction, with nothing but bush covered hills in the other direction. It was a real escape from the world - no mobile phone reception, no computers for miles and only rain water and stream water for drinking. Met lots of good people who were staying in the same huts as me, two of whom I had met before - which was quite bizarre! All in all, despite the tired feet, it was well worth the 40Km of riding along gravel roads to do it.
Now I am in Napier, which seems like a pretty laid back kind of town. It's stuffed full of Art Deco buildings, and is judged to be one of the finest collections of buildings of it's type anywhere in the world. I plan to stay here for a couple of days, just looking around and taking in the atmosphere before heading off again. I'm not sure where the next stop will be, but I've got a couple of days to decide . . .
I hope you're all feeling tip top and getting in the christmas spirit. The christmas parades have started up over here, but when you're wandering around in shorts and a t-shirt it all seems a tad surreal.
Anyway, have fune everyone and I'll write more rubbish soon. While I'm in Napier, I'll see if I can get more photos on the blog too.
Yesterday I finished a four day tramp around Lake Waikaremoana, which is simply gorgeous. It is a large lake about 500m above sea level in the middle of a huge area of untouched forest and bush land. Overnight you stay in huts dotted around the wlaking route, which are really just bunk rooms with a communal area for cooking and chatting. The walking was great, you could wander through the dense bush and along the lake side without seeing a single person all day. There was a side track up to a beautiful waterfall in the middle of nowhere and from the highest hut you could see Hawkes bay and the pacific ocean in one direction, with nothing but bush covered hills in the other direction. It was a real escape from the world - no mobile phone reception, no computers for miles and only rain water and stream water for drinking. Met lots of good people who were staying in the same huts as me, two of whom I had met before - which was quite bizarre! All in all, despite the tired feet, it was well worth the 40Km of riding along gravel roads to do it.
Now I am in Napier, which seems like a pretty laid back kind of town. It's stuffed full of Art Deco buildings, and is judged to be one of the finest collections of buildings of it's type anywhere in the world. I plan to stay here for a couple of days, just looking around and taking in the atmosphere before heading off again. I'm not sure where the next stop will be, but I've got a couple of days to decide . . .
I hope you're all feeling tip top and getting in the christmas spirit. The christmas parades have started up over here, but when you're wandering around in shorts and a t-shirt it all seems a tad surreal.
Anyway, have fune everyone and I'll write more rubbish soon. While I'm in Napier, I'll see if I can get more photos on the blog too.
November 29, 2004
Old style NZ
Now this may seem a but rushed, but I have just typed this entry once and then lost it!
So, from the smells and mud of Rotorua I headed north to Whakatane and Ohope on the coast of the Bay of Plenty. A really nice area with a chilled out feel and sandy beaches lapped by the south pacific surf. None too shabby.
Heading out along the coast, I made for the east cape - the eastern most point in NZ. This is an area mostly ignored by tourists and blissfully free of rented camper vans and such like. I pitched up my tent at a farly basic campsite where you could have a hot shower, but only if you lit the wood burner about 2 hours before you wanted the hot water! The site was right on a pebble beach between two bush covered headlands and the only other people there was a group of about 15 or so from Whakatane who were there to celebrate a 21 birthday. Kiwi hospitality being what it is, I was 'forced' to spend the evening sitting by a campfire on the beach, drinking their beer and having a good time. They were a really cool bunch and very generous with their beer . . .
The rest of the trip around the cape and down the coast was very relaxing. The whole area is ridiculously laid back. The petrol stations, of which there are not many, apparently run out and it takes and age to buy anything in a shop (if you can find one). When I stopped in a village, kids would appear out of nowhere and be amazed to find that I was from the UK. Random people wave at you as you go by, probably glad to just see someone making use of the road. It's a very unspoiled area where you can see falcons hunting right by the side of the road. I hope it doesn't get any busier.
So, now I'm in Gisbourne, which feels a tad run down. It doesn't feel quite as welcoming as most places I've been, but I've only been here for a couple of hours.
Next plan is to do a four day walk around a lake to the south of here. It'll be a few nights staying in huts and just ambling along. I'm off now to check it it out at the local DOC office.
I hope you're all surviving the cold. Take care and I'll be back in touch soon.
So, from the smells and mud of Rotorua I headed north to Whakatane and Ohope on the coast of the Bay of Plenty. A really nice area with a chilled out feel and sandy beaches lapped by the south pacific surf. None too shabby.
Heading out along the coast, I made for the east cape - the eastern most point in NZ. This is an area mostly ignored by tourists and blissfully free of rented camper vans and such like. I pitched up my tent at a farly basic campsite where you could have a hot shower, but only if you lit the wood burner about 2 hours before you wanted the hot water! The site was right on a pebble beach between two bush covered headlands and the only other people there was a group of about 15 or so from Whakatane who were there to celebrate a 21 birthday. Kiwi hospitality being what it is, I was 'forced' to spend the evening sitting by a campfire on the beach, drinking their beer and having a good time. They were a really cool bunch and very generous with their beer . . .
The rest of the trip around the cape and down the coast was very relaxing. The whole area is ridiculously laid back. The petrol stations, of which there are not many, apparently run out and it takes and age to buy anything in a shop (if you can find one). When I stopped in a village, kids would appear out of nowhere and be amazed to find that I was from the UK. Random people wave at you as you go by, probably glad to just see someone making use of the road. It's a very unspoiled area where you can see falcons hunting right by the side of the road. I hope it doesn't get any busier.
So, now I'm in Gisbourne, which feels a tad run down. It doesn't feel quite as welcoming as most places I've been, but I've only been here for a couple of hours.
Next plan is to do a four day walk around a lake to the south of here. It'll be a few nights staying in huts and just ambling along. I'm off now to check it it out at the local DOC office.
I hope you're all surviving the cold. Take care and I'll be back in touch soon.
November 24, 2004
Smelly geysers
Kia Ora from Rotarua, the land of hot mud, geysers (not geezers) and the smell of sulphur. Sorry it's been a little while since I updated, but today is the first time I've seen a computer for a while.
So what have I been up to? Well, the last time I wrote, I was in Te Aroha. As it turned out, the campsite was full of the strangest bunch of people in New Zealand. They were all local and lived in permanent caravans on the site. Don't get me wrong, they were perfectly friendly, but the way they could talk for 10 minutes without breaking eye contact of blinking was rather unnerving! Anyway, didn;t stay there for long, but headed up the Coromandel peninsula instead.
The Coromandel is basically just a range of hills (or mountains as they would be known in the UK) with sea on both sides. The west coast is more rocky with rougher beaches and that is where I stayed on Thursday night. I camped in Coromandel town, which is just a big village really, and met up with a maori guy who was camped on the same site. We arranged to meet for a few beers at the local pub, but by the time he arrived, I had been there for about 2 hours and was busy nattering with the locals. By kicking out time, there was a group made up of backpackers, locals and myself and this maori geezer. So, of course, we went back to the backpackers and cleared up any beers they had! This means that I now have an open invitation to visit the maori village where this chap lives and experience all of the stuuf most people have to pay for, for free - nicely.
And so to the weekend. I met up with Andy, Sarah and Kate again at the bach they had rented out in Hahei. Hahei is on the east coast of the peninsula and is a gorgeous spot. It was very quiet which meant that lounging on the white sandy beach as the (cold) pacific lapped gently at the shore was quite blissful. I also got to sleep in a proper bed and got fed properly. I may well fall to bits over the next few weeks without Andy and Sarah to look after me!
We had a top weekend with a bit of sight seeing, a bit of walking and plently of lunging about. The others went sea kyacking as well, but I'm saving that for the south island in the new year.
And so to Rotorua (via coromandel town again). It's actually not as smelly here as I expected it to be, but the thermal activity is really quite bizarre. There are bubbling ponds in the park, holes with hot mud burping away and some of the storm drains in the kerbs have got steam coming out of them! All in all, it's not quite like anywhere else I have ever been. During the course of today I have seen geysers spurting boiling water all over the place, bright red and green rocks surrounding steaming holes in the ground, maori dancers and warriors and real live (and awake) kiwis. If I'm not careful I'll have done everything too soon!
So there we are, up to date. Thanks for all the comments. A particular mention to Graham - nice to hear from you and jobs aren't fun anyway.
Take good care one and all . . .
So what have I been up to? Well, the last time I wrote, I was in Te Aroha. As it turned out, the campsite was full of the strangest bunch of people in New Zealand. They were all local and lived in permanent caravans on the site. Don't get me wrong, they were perfectly friendly, but the way they could talk for 10 minutes without breaking eye contact of blinking was rather unnerving! Anyway, didn;t stay there for long, but headed up the Coromandel peninsula instead.
The Coromandel is basically just a range of hills (or mountains as they would be known in the UK) with sea on both sides. The west coast is more rocky with rougher beaches and that is where I stayed on Thursday night. I camped in Coromandel town, which is just a big village really, and met up with a maori guy who was camped on the same site. We arranged to meet for a few beers at the local pub, but by the time he arrived, I had been there for about 2 hours and was busy nattering with the locals. By kicking out time, there was a group made up of backpackers, locals and myself and this maori geezer. So, of course, we went back to the backpackers and cleared up any beers they had! This means that I now have an open invitation to visit the maori village where this chap lives and experience all of the stuuf most people have to pay for, for free - nicely.
And so to the weekend. I met up with Andy, Sarah and Kate again at the bach they had rented out in Hahei. Hahei is on the east coast of the peninsula and is a gorgeous spot. It was very quiet which meant that lounging on the white sandy beach as the (cold) pacific lapped gently at the shore was quite blissful. I also got to sleep in a proper bed and got fed properly. I may well fall to bits over the next few weeks without Andy and Sarah to look after me!
We had a top weekend with a bit of sight seeing, a bit of walking and plently of lunging about. The others went sea kyacking as well, but I'm saving that for the south island in the new year.
And so to Rotorua (via coromandel town again). It's actually not as smelly here as I expected it to be, but the thermal activity is really quite bizarre. There are bubbling ponds in the park, holes with hot mud burping away and some of the storm drains in the kerbs have got steam coming out of them! All in all, it's not quite like anywhere else I have ever been. During the course of today I have seen geysers spurting boiling water all over the place, bright red and green rocks surrounding steaming holes in the ground, maori dancers and warriors and real live (and awake) kiwis. If I'm not careful I'll have done everything too soon!
So there we are, up to date. Thanks for all the comments. A particular mention to Graham - nice to hear from you and jobs aren't fun anyway.
Take good care one and all . . .
November 17, 2004
Hobbits and giant waves
Just a very quick update, since I don't have much time on this computer. When I got to Raglan (the surfing place), a huge storm hit! I kid you not, the waves were higher than a two storey house - needless to say I didn't surf. Even the surfers from Alaska described the conditions as "just too gnarly man". So I just spent some time chilling out in the laid back environment.
Went to Hobbiton - no hobbits at hokme though. Still, pretty cool to go to the place where the only remaining part of Lord of the Rings set is. Nice place, you should go.
I am now in a town called Te Aroha, which is not far from where the North Island gold rush was going on about 100 years ago. Been out walking in one of the local gorges today and will go up the local mountain tomorrow.
Sorry this is brief, but more chat soon.
By the way - Rift Zone eh Rob? Nicely new experience? Get yerself down Afan way.
Went to Hobbiton - no hobbits at hokme though. Still, pretty cool to go to the place where the only remaining part of Lord of the Rings set is. Nice place, you should go.
I am now in a town called Te Aroha, which is not far from where the North Island gold rush was going on about 100 years ago. Been out walking in one of the local gorges today and will go up the local mountain tomorrow.
Sorry this is brief, but more chat soon.
By the way - Rift Zone eh Rob? Nicely new experience? Get yerself down Afan way.
November 12, 2004
The week ahead
Just thought I'd give you an idea of the vague plan for the week ahead. It's Friday evening now, which means that you'll still be asleep with Friday still to come. We are 13 hours ahead here at the moment (I think).
Tomorrow Andy and I are going to a show in Auckland called "big boys toys", it sounds like FHM in real life - loads of bikes, boats and such like stuff. Then tomorrow evening, I think that myself, Andy, Sarah and Kate will be meeting up with Andy's sister - Sue.
Sunday will be when I set off from Auckland again and I think I will head for Raglan. It is reputed to have one of the best and longest left hand surf breaks in the world, so I think a couple of days there and hire out a board might be a nice way to spend some time . . . .
Then I will head across country towards the Coromandel peninsula. I have been told that it is simply gorgeous and Andy and Sarah have hired a bach (holiday cabin type thing) for next weekend. Hobbiton (Matamata where the first bit of the Lord of the Rings film was made) is one the way, so I'll have to stop off there. Apparently most of the set still exists, so I'll try to get a photo of Bag End.
So there it is, fairly loose and flexible as plans go, but should work out fine I hope!
By the way, If you want to leave comments on the blog, rather than having to send a separate email to me, it's easy. Click on "comments" under the photo or piece of text and then "post a comment". You can leave a comment anonomously - so you don't have to go through the process of signing up or put your name in the comment somewhere. I'll always check the comments and may leave you a reply on the blog . . . .
Have a lovely Friday and weekend, I'll be back with more rubbish soon.
Tomorrow Andy and I are going to a show in Auckland called "big boys toys", it sounds like FHM in real life - loads of bikes, boats and such like stuff. Then tomorrow evening, I think that myself, Andy, Sarah and Kate will be meeting up with Andy's sister - Sue.
Sunday will be when I set off from Auckland again and I think I will head for Raglan. It is reputed to have one of the best and longest left hand surf breaks in the world, so I think a couple of days there and hire out a board might be a nice way to spend some time . . . .
Then I will head across country towards the Coromandel peninsula. I have been told that it is simply gorgeous and Andy and Sarah have hired a bach (holiday cabin type thing) for next weekend. Hobbiton (Matamata where the first bit of the Lord of the Rings film was made) is one the way, so I'll have to stop off there. Apparently most of the set still exists, so I'll try to get a photo of Bag End.
So there it is, fairly loose and flexible as plans go, but should work out fine I hope!
By the way, If you want to leave comments on the blog, rather than having to send a separate email to me, it's easy. Click on "comments" under the photo or piece of text and then "post a comment". You can leave a comment anonomously - so you don't have to go through the process of signing up or put your name in the comment somewhere. I'll always check the comments and may leave you a reply on the blog . . . .
Have a lovely Friday and weekend, I'll be back with more rubbish soon.
November 11, 2004
November 08, 2004
Water and big trees . . . .
Hello my lovelies! I've been out of phone and internet land for a few days, so I thought I should give you an update.
I met up with Andy, Sarah and Kate at Kai Iwi lakes on Friday night and spent the weekend there with them. The lakes are quite bizarre really. They are natural fresh water lakes only about a kilometer (as the Parrot flies) from the west coast and the Tasman sea. The water is crystal clear and the sand around the lakes is very fine and almost white. Sitting outside the tents at night there was absolutely no background light pollution and looking up past the trees, the stars were brighter than I have ever seen them.
The local beach was gorgeous, a long stretch of wild beach going on and on with hardly a person in sight, just a few fishermen casting into the surf. Andy tried out his new surf casting rod, while Sarah, Kate and I sat back and relaxed in the sunshine or ambled slowly up the beach. All very dreadfull!
On Sunday I headed back up north about 30 Km's to stay at the Waipoua Forest for a couple of nights. For anyone who has ridden a motorbike, I have to say that the road through the forest is the best motorbike road I have ever been on. The road winds through the forest, avoiding the Kauri trees (more on those in a minute), with trees and ferns coming right up to the edge of the road. Even more importantly, you can travel right through the forest, a distance of about 18 Km's, without seeing any other traffic at all.
The forest itself is beautiful. It is one of the few remaining areas of native forest with large Kauri trees still standing. The Kauri is the second largest tree in the world, but since the trunk does not taper at all, they look simply massive. The oldest tree is around 2000 years old and I'll post pictures when I get back to Auckland. Suffice to say, you will have to see them to believe how big they are. Also, the forest is a wildlife reserve, so wandering through this ancient forest, surrounded by huge Kauri trees while watching parrots fly through the canopy is quite some experience . . .
Anyway, back in relative civilisation now and heading slowly southwards again. I will be in Auckland this weekend, but may manage an update before I get there. I hope everyone is well and happy. Take care.
I met up with Andy, Sarah and Kate at Kai Iwi lakes on Friday night and spent the weekend there with them. The lakes are quite bizarre really. They are natural fresh water lakes only about a kilometer (as the Parrot flies) from the west coast and the Tasman sea. The water is crystal clear and the sand around the lakes is very fine and almost white. Sitting outside the tents at night there was absolutely no background light pollution and looking up past the trees, the stars were brighter than I have ever seen them.
The local beach was gorgeous, a long stretch of wild beach going on and on with hardly a person in sight, just a few fishermen casting into the surf. Andy tried out his new surf casting rod, while Sarah, Kate and I sat back and relaxed in the sunshine or ambled slowly up the beach. All very dreadfull!
On Sunday I headed back up north about 30 Km's to stay at the Waipoua Forest for a couple of nights. For anyone who has ridden a motorbike, I have to say that the road through the forest is the best motorbike road I have ever been on. The road winds through the forest, avoiding the Kauri trees (more on those in a minute), with trees and ferns coming right up to the edge of the road. Even more importantly, you can travel right through the forest, a distance of about 18 Km's, without seeing any other traffic at all.
The forest itself is beautiful. It is one of the few remaining areas of native forest with large Kauri trees still standing. The Kauri is the second largest tree in the world, but since the trunk does not taper at all, they look simply massive. The oldest tree is around 2000 years old and I'll post pictures when I get back to Auckland. Suffice to say, you will have to see them to believe how big they are. Also, the forest is a wildlife reserve, so wandering through this ancient forest, surrounded by huge Kauri trees while watching parrots fly through the canopy is quite some experience . . .
Anyway, back in relative civilisation now and heading slowly southwards again. I will be in Auckland this weekend, but may manage an update before I get there. I hope everyone is well and happy. Take care.
November 04, 2004
The far north
Well, it's Thursday - probably - and I am all set up in a town called Rawene on the west coast of the Northland of the North Island. Yesterday was a fun and interesting one. After consulting with the locals regarding the possibility of getting off ninety mile beach with my bike intact, I decided to take a bus up there instead! However, since it is still early in the season over here, the "bus" turned out to be a Toyota Land Cruiser four wheel drive thingy, with only four of us on it. This type of tour is usually about NZ$450, but we got it for NZ$60 - nice bargain!
Well, ninety mile beach is enormous, even when you're belting up it at in excess if 70mph (these crazy Kiwi's). Stopped off a couple of times on the way up to be astounded by the general immense size of the beach, before leaving by the only route, up a quick sand river. Remember, this beach is supposed to be a highway! The driver told me that if you stopped for about 4 seconds when driving up the river, you would lose your car. Given the leftover pieces of buses which we saw on the beach, I was not inclined to doubt him.
This was followed by hurtling down huge sand dunes, head first, on boogie boards. Now that's fun - apart from hiking up the dunes first.
Then swiftly off to Cape Reinga, the most northerly point, the meeting of the Pacific Ocean and the Tasman Sea and a very sacred place to the Maori. It's quite spectacular and fortunately all protected land. Via small deserted sub tropical coves, we wended our way back to Doubtless bay, where I was camped out.
The landscape up here is ever changing and always wonderfull. At times it is flat pasture land and then 20 minutes later it feels as though you are in the foot hills of the alps, except for the sub tropical bush which covers the hills and mountains.
Tomorrow it looks as though I will be heading south to meet up with Sarah, Andy and Kate (Sarah's sister) for the weekend camping by some lakes. After that, I will come back up north a little way to visit the Kauri forests. More of that later. For now, take care one and all.
Oh yes - for the "mystery VFR800 owner" more bike details follow on from your comment . . . .
Well, ninety mile beach is enormous, even when you're belting up it at in excess if 70mph (these crazy Kiwi's). Stopped off a couple of times on the way up to be astounded by the general immense size of the beach, before leaving by the only route, up a quick sand river. Remember, this beach is supposed to be a highway! The driver told me that if you stopped for about 4 seconds when driving up the river, you would lose your car. Given the leftover pieces of buses which we saw on the beach, I was not inclined to doubt him.
This was followed by hurtling down huge sand dunes, head first, on boogie boards. Now that's fun - apart from hiking up the dunes first.
Then swiftly off to Cape Reinga, the most northerly point, the meeting of the Pacific Ocean and the Tasman Sea and a very sacred place to the Maori. It's quite spectacular and fortunately all protected land. Via small deserted sub tropical coves, we wended our way back to Doubtless bay, where I was camped out.
The landscape up here is ever changing and always wonderfull. At times it is flat pasture land and then 20 minutes later it feels as though you are in the foot hills of the alps, except for the sub tropical bush which covers the hills and mountains.
Tomorrow it looks as though I will be heading south to meet up with Sarah, Andy and Kate (Sarah's sister) for the weekend camping by some lakes. After that, I will come back up north a little way to visit the Kauri forests. More of that later. For now, take care one and all.
Oh yes - for the "mystery VFR800 owner" more bike details follow on from your comment . . . .
November 02, 2004
Just a quickie . . .
Internet connections don't come cheap up here in the middle of nowhere. I am at Doubtless Bay on the North East coast, not far from Cape Reinga, the top of NZ. Last night was spent at Haruru Falls, a nice little campsite in what used to be a volcano crater (so I was told in the pub). The night before was spent at a DOC campsite sandwiched between State Highway 1 and a completely deserted and quiet beach. At night I could hear the surf and in the morning I could hear the cars - a bit strange really.
Anyway, tomorrow I am heading up Ninety Mile beach to the cape. It should be a busy day and full of odd experiences. For anyone who is not aware, 90 mile beach is 64 miles long and is a designated highway! When the tide heads out, specially adapted buses blast up the hard sand to the cape and back. There is also the bonus of sand toboggoning (might have spelled that wrong) on some huge dunes. I'll let you know what happens. More photos will be on in a week or so I reckon.
By the way, further to the comment from "the Moores" I have to apologise for being so remiss in not adequately either thanking or praising my hosts in Auckland. They are highly recommended, good company, mine of information, comfy beds and lovely food. Book early and expect prices to rise in the near future . . . .
Anyway, tomorrow I am heading up Ninety Mile beach to the cape. It should be a busy day and full of odd experiences. For anyone who is not aware, 90 mile beach is 64 miles long and is a designated highway! When the tide heads out, specially adapted buses blast up the hard sand to the cape and back. There is also the bonus of sand toboggoning (might have spelled that wrong) on some huge dunes. I'll let you know what happens. More photos will be on in a week or so I reckon.
By the way, further to the comment from "the Moores" I have to apologise for being so remiss in not adequately either thanking or praising my hosts in Auckland. They are highly recommended, good company, mine of information, comfy beds and lovely food. Book early and expect prices to rise in the near future . . . .
October 31, 2004
Up north again
It’s Sunday, it’s hot and sunny and it’s Sarah’s birthday - hurrah! We’ve just been down to the beach to watch the Auckland marathon runners sprint/jog/struggle past while we sat back enjoying a relaxing coffee and breakfast in the morning sunshine. A very pleasant stroll along the sandy bays and a dip of the feet into the sea later and it was obviously ice cream time.
We are now back at Andy and Sarah’s place and I am finishing off the packing of my gear, ready for the off in an hour or two. I am planning to head north to Waipu (pronounced “why pooh”) Cove or Uretiti Beach. Both have campsites, with the Uretiti Beach campsite being a Department of Conservation (DOC) site. I suspect I will be staying at quite a few DOC sites, they are basic but usually only cost NZ$6 (about 2 pounds 30) per night and they are all in conservation areas. I haven’t decided where to stay tonight yet, I’ll just see what the campsites look like.
In the next couple of weeks I’ll head up the east coast to Cape Reinga, the most northerly point in NZ and then come back down the west coast to Auckland. By that time, both Andy and Sarah’s sisters will be in town, so I’ll stop by to say hi before heading away to the Coromandel peninsula.
So there we are, a very rough plan for the next three weeks or so. I’ll be updating the blog whenever I can and posting photo’s if possible. If I can’t get photo’s on, you’ll have to wait until I get back to Auckland before you can see the sights . . . . . So take care everyone, and I’ll be in touch again soon.
We are now back at Andy and Sarah’s place and I am finishing off the packing of my gear, ready for the off in an hour or two. I am planning to head north to Waipu (pronounced “why pooh”) Cove or Uretiti Beach. Both have campsites, with the Uretiti Beach campsite being a Department of Conservation (DOC) site. I suspect I will be staying at quite a few DOC sites, they are basic but usually only cost NZ$6 (about 2 pounds 30) per night and they are all in conservation areas. I haven’t decided where to stay tonight yet, I’ll just see what the campsites look like.
In the next couple of weeks I’ll head up the east coast to Cape Reinga, the most northerly point in NZ and then come back down the west coast to Auckland. By that time, both Andy and Sarah’s sisters will be in town, so I’ll stop by to say hi before heading away to the Coromandel peninsula.
So there we are, a very rough plan for the next three weeks or so. I’ll be updating the blog whenever I can and posting photo’s if possible. If I can’t get photo’s on, you’ll have to wait until I get back to Auckland before you can see the sights . . . . . So take care everyone, and I’ll be in touch again soon.
October 30, 2004
October 29, 2004
Biking
Hurrah! Have transport, will travel. I'll post a photo of the steed later today, but suffice to say that my two wheeled companion is in Sarah and Andy's garage and I will be heading off to the Northland tomorrow. Not much to tell of the last few days, mostly it's been spent getting my transport sorted out. But now I can look forward to a couple of weeks mooching around the most northerly area of NZ before coming back through Auckland and heading south.
I've got my technical camping equipment, a book of NZ campsites, a book of Lord of the Rings locations (!) and a mode of transport - what more could I need?!
Oh yes, I've got a NZ mobile phone as well, so if anyone receives very odd random text messages at wierd times, it might be me holed up in a bar somewhere . . .
I've got my technical camping equipment, a book of NZ campsites, a book of Lord of the Rings locations (!) and a mode of transport - what more could I need?!
Oh yes, I've got a NZ mobile phone as well, so if anyone receives very odd random text messages at wierd times, it might be me holed up in a bar somewhere . . .
October 26, 2004
Perfect woman?
I forgot to mention that I missed the Wanaka "perfect woman" competition, which was held last weekend. To give you a flavour of how it worked, two of the categories were:
1. Opening a beer bottle without the use of a bottle opener.
2. Guy bucking - rodeo riding an untamed guy from the local rugby club.
Not quite Miss World . . . .
1. Opening a beer bottle without the use of a bottle opener.
2. Guy bucking - rodeo riding an untamed guy from the local rugby club.
Not quite Miss World . . . .
October 25, 2004
Up North (part one)
Thanks for the comments posted, I think. Not sure about the Holmes and Watson thing though. Is it masquerading as some sort of joke?
Back in Auckland after a weekend in the Northland. Sarah, Andy and myself set off on saturday morning, with camping gear and no particular plan except to head north. On the way we discovered delights such as a place called the "art of cheese". It turned out not to be a commune of the southern hemisphere's premier cheese sculptors, but just a cheese making facility and shop. I am sure you will understand my great dissapointment.
However, we continued northward, via the surf beach at Mangawhai heads, to Paihia on the Bay of Islands. The bay is a popular tourist spot in the height of summer, but wasn't too busy this early in the spring - after all, it's the equivalent of April in the UK.
Saturday night was the NZ rugby version of the FA cup, so the pubs were packed with slightly drunk but entertaining and friendly kiwi's, who suddenly became even more friendly when they found out I was a Scotland rugby supporter!
Sunday kicked off with a visit to the Treaty House and grounds at Waitangi, the place where the treaty between the UK and the Maori was signed and modern New Zealand began. An interesting place with a small one bedrooom house which belonged to the official British representative to NZ. Hardly impressively palacial.
So from there, a walk through the bush, across the mangrove swamps and past the waterfalls led us, rather conveniently, to another pub!
The Bay is a lovely spot, with clear water and sandy beaches. A ferry took us across to the quiet and colonial town of Russell, where relaxation is very much the order of the day. But if you want, you can sail up the coast to dive on the wreck of the Rainbow Warrior (the Greenpeace ship sunk by the French secret service) or head off down the coast in enormously powerful 50 person speedboats. For us, it was kicking back and enjoying the sunshine though.
Back in Auckland after a weekend in the Northland. Sarah, Andy and myself set off on saturday morning, with camping gear and no particular plan except to head north. On the way we discovered delights such as a place called the "art of cheese". It turned out not to be a commune of the southern hemisphere's premier cheese sculptors, but just a cheese making facility and shop. I am sure you will understand my great dissapointment.
However, we continued northward, via the surf beach at Mangawhai heads, to Paihia on the Bay of Islands. The bay is a popular tourist spot in the height of summer, but wasn't too busy this early in the spring - after all, it's the equivalent of April in the UK.
Saturday night was the NZ rugby version of the FA cup, so the pubs were packed with slightly drunk but entertaining and friendly kiwi's, who suddenly became even more friendly when they found out I was a Scotland rugby supporter!
Sunday kicked off with a visit to the Treaty House and grounds at Waitangi, the place where the treaty between the UK and the Maori was signed and modern New Zealand began. An interesting place with a small one bedrooom house which belonged to the official British representative to NZ. Hardly impressively palacial.
So from there, a walk through the bush, across the mangrove swamps and past the waterfalls led us, rather conveniently, to another pub!
The Bay is a lovely spot, with clear water and sandy beaches. A ferry took us across to the quiet and colonial town of Russell, where relaxation is very much the order of the day. But if you want, you can sail up the coast to dive on the wreck of the Rainbow Warrior (the Greenpeace ship sunk by the French secret service) or head off down the coast in enormously powerful 50 person speedboats. For us, it was kicking back and enjoying the sunshine though.
October 22, 2004
Getting camp
Today will be day four - so what happened to day three? Well, the last couple of days have been spent ambling around Auckland, checking out the outdoors shops (of which there are loads) and completing my camping kit. So I now have rather nice technical tent and an equally lovely technical sleeping bag! Of course, I had to visit every outdoors shop I could find before finally buying anything. So now all I need to sort out is some transport and I can be off and away, leaving Sarah and Andy in peace.
Off camping for the bank holiday weekend very shortly, so there will be more photo's and chat in a couple of days . . . .
Off camping for the bank holiday weekend very shortly, so there will be more photo's and chat in a couple of days . . . .
October 21, 2004
October 20, 2004
Here at last
It’s my second full day in Auckland, just had a cup of coffee and have almost come to terms with being awake again.
The trip over was long and bereft of sleep. Heathrow was a manic as ever, just full of bustle and a bit shabby. By contrast, Kuala Lumpur airport was clean, modern and almost empty. It’s also surrounded by fields of palm trees, stretching as far as I could see. Quite what I would have seen if I’d been on the other side of the plane I don’t know, because I presume that a large city called Kuala Lumpur can’t be too far away! I’d forgotten how large Jumbo jets are as well. It’s astounding that the things ever get airborne.
So anyway, it was lovely to arrive in the Auckland springtime. Having been in surroundings of bare trees and leaf carpeted ground only a short time before, I was now looking out of the airport bus window onto lush green hillsides and trees in the first flush of spring. The sun was shining and a big smile was on my chops.
I arrived at Sarah and Andy’s house with no mishaps – Sarah’s instructions for bus travel out from the centre of Auckland proved to be fool proof enough for even a very tired half wit. It was lovely to see Sarah and Andy again, both looking chipper and very well. I thought it a fine idea to go out to a local bar for a couple of cheeky beers . . . .
St. Heliers, where S & A live is a top place. It’s almost a self contained village, but a suburb of Auckland. The “village” runs down the hill towards a bay full of clean turquoise water with a small sandy beach. Looking out over the water, the local volcano rises out of the sea, covered in trees and looking all rather tropical. The volcano has been dormant for 800 years, so I don’t feel too threatened by its presence! When I’ve got sorted out, I’ll post photos.
Central Auckland is only 3 bays away and yesterday morning I had a nice walk into the city. It’s about 10km’s and so the walk filled a fair chunk of the morning, but it was fabulous to realise that I had nothing to rush around for and could afford to take time walking rather than having to catch a bus. The sun shone on the sea (and me) as I strolled along with joggers and cyclists dashing past me. All very dreadful. So, taking it easy seems to be the thing to do and I plan to make sure I do more of it!
Anyway, the coming weekend is a bank holiday type thing, so I will be heading north with S & A for a bit of camping. We’re not sure of a destination yet, but apparently it’s all gorgeous, so it doesn’t really matter! I’ll let you know . . . . . .
The trip over was long and bereft of sleep. Heathrow was a manic as ever, just full of bustle and a bit shabby. By contrast, Kuala Lumpur airport was clean, modern and almost empty. It’s also surrounded by fields of palm trees, stretching as far as I could see. Quite what I would have seen if I’d been on the other side of the plane I don’t know, because I presume that a large city called Kuala Lumpur can’t be too far away! I’d forgotten how large Jumbo jets are as well. It’s astounding that the things ever get airborne.
So anyway, it was lovely to arrive in the Auckland springtime. Having been in surroundings of bare trees and leaf carpeted ground only a short time before, I was now looking out of the airport bus window onto lush green hillsides and trees in the first flush of spring. The sun was shining and a big smile was on my chops.
I arrived at Sarah and Andy’s house with no mishaps – Sarah’s instructions for bus travel out from the centre of Auckland proved to be fool proof enough for even a very tired half wit. It was lovely to see Sarah and Andy again, both looking chipper and very well. I thought it a fine idea to go out to a local bar for a couple of cheeky beers . . . .
St. Heliers, where S & A live is a top place. It’s almost a self contained village, but a suburb of Auckland. The “village” runs down the hill towards a bay full of clean turquoise water with a small sandy beach. Looking out over the water, the local volcano rises out of the sea, covered in trees and looking all rather tropical. The volcano has been dormant for 800 years, so I don’t feel too threatened by its presence! When I’ve got sorted out, I’ll post photos.
Central Auckland is only 3 bays away and yesterday morning I had a nice walk into the city. It’s about 10km’s and so the walk filled a fair chunk of the morning, but it was fabulous to realise that I had nothing to rush around for and could afford to take time walking rather than having to catch a bus. The sun shone on the sea (and me) as I strolled along with joggers and cyclists dashing past me. All very dreadful. So, taking it easy seems to be the thing to do and I plan to make sure I do more of it!
Anyway, the coming weekend is a bank holiday type thing, so I will be heading north with S & A for a bit of camping. We’re not sure of a destination yet, but apparently it’s all gorgeous, so it doesn’t really matter! I’ll let you know . . . . . .
October 17, 2004
Time to go . . .
So here I am, the Heathrow bus leaves from Cambridge in about 2 hours, the flight leaves at 10 this evening and so I'll be in Auckland on Tuesday just before lunch. My rucksack is finally packed (with lots of miniaturised fold up technical gear) and will be my constant companion/nemesis for the next six months. I've just sent out a few emails asking everyone to visit this website, so hopefully there'll be a few comments posted or emails in my inbox by the time I get to hobbit land. By the time I get there I should have recovered from the alchohol abuse of the last couple of weeks, just in time to start all over again.
So take care, enjoy the winter - I'm of to the land of springtime . . . .
So take care, enjoy the winter - I'm of to the land of springtime . . . .
October 01, 2004
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